Nature and climate in Switzerland

Almost needless to say that Switzerland is famous for its mountain scenery. The area of the Alps covers about 60% of the country and it attracts lots of tourists.

Are you planning to explore Switzerland by train or mountain lifts? Be sure to read all about the Swiss Pass.

The genesis of the Alps

The surface of the earth is in motion. Not only volcanic eruptions, but also earthquakes maintain a continuous process of change. Earthquakes are caused by the slow movement of shifting continents: towards each other, away from each other or one over the other. When these tectonic plates move towards each other, the enormous pressure can form new mountain chains.

Elevation map of the Western Alps. Click on the map to see a large format with a number of cities included.

Picture:  National Geophysical Data Center (USA), Global Land One-km Base Elevation (GLOBE) project.

The history of the Alps started some 500 million years ago. In the then existing Tethyan Sea, the materials the Alps are made of, such as marble, limestone and granite, developed during many millions of years. The actual mountain-building started a 100 million years ago when the African tectonic plate started to move towards and causing pressure on the more stable tectonic plates of Europe and Asia. Under the influence of this gigantic pressure the bottom of the sea rose to form new mountains. On a smaller scale glacial periods and glaciers caused the shaping of the mountains by their eroding influence.

The growth process is still going on. On a geological timescale the Alps are a young mountain range, still developing: the Alps gain about one millimetre (0.04 ") in height every year. One can recognize a young mountain range by its high and roughly shaped tops. The summits will be subject to wear caused by erosion and weathering and they will eventually round off. As a result of this the mountains will disappear forever in the long term. The earth is, and will be, in motion...

Indeed, the Alps were the first mountain area which was geologically investigated in an extensive way. Many geological terms find their origin in the Alps. Worldwide the name 'Alps' is often used in the nomenclature of other mountain ranges.

The dynamic Alps

This road was carried away by the River Emme in August 2005.

Picture:  Keystone.

Mountains are always in motion. Also now nature causes the Alps to change constantly. Melting snow forms fast-streaming masses of water by which stones and rock-waste are carried away and rocks slowly are grinded into round shapes. This, for instance, can be seen at the Trümmelbachfälle. Glaciers slowly slide down the mountain slope and grind new valleys. This impressive natural phenomenon can be looked at near the Grosser Aletsch glacier.

Avalanches of snow or stones tumble into the valleys. Because this cannot always be predicted, it unfortunately takes casualties regularly. In the Bernese Oberland, Wallis and Graubünden 17 people lost their lives in snow avalanches in February, 1999. Heavy weather can instantly transform quiet brooklets into fierce rivers, like in the Bernese Oberland on July 27, 1999, where 21 tourists died in the Saxet Bach, while canyoning down the river. Heavy rains occurred in Switzerland and surrounding countries in August 2005, causing several casualties. The center and eastern part of the country suffered from floodings and landslides. Residential areas flooded and roads and railroads needed to close due to damaged bridges. Many people were evacuated. Trouble was not limited to deserted areas. Parts of Bern and Interlaken flooded as well. The lower Engadin in Graubünden and tourists resorts such as Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen and Engelberg were cut off from the outside world. Buildings collapsed in Brienz in the Bernese Oberland. These kind of events show that it is mandatory to take caution in the mountains. But this should be no reason not to enjoy your holiday and the impressive scenery. Accidents are rare and often due to imprudence. And, on top of that, the Swiss are very alert for possible danger.

The weather in Switzerland

Locarno

Nowhere the weather is more changeable than in the mountains. A mountain chain often forms the separation between different kinds of weather. Regularly the whole area of the Alps is the border between the cooler Northern European climate and the warmer Southern European climate. This already indicates that both types of weather can be found in Switzerland. At a regional level this is a known phenomenon too. While the sun is shining in one valley it may be raining at the other side of the mountain. The weather may also clear up very fast. A cloudy, drizzly morning does not necessarily have to be a sign for a day full of bad weather. There may be a cloudless sky within the hour. Alas, it goes the other way round as well, and on a beautiful day it may suddenly become cloudy and rainy. This certainly is something to take into account.

The temperatures vary a lot too. Height influences the temperature most. On mountain tops it may be chilly even in summer and you may encounter thick layers of snow. In low sunny areas like the Rhône valley between the Lac Leman (Lake of Geneva) and Brig in Wallis there is a Mediterranean climate in summer. The surroundings of Lago Maggiore in Tessin are the warmest area where lovers of the sun will feel at home under the palm trees.

Also the amount of precipitation is very variable. Around the valley of the Rhone we find the driest parts of the country, sometimes locally comparable with a steppe climate. In this dry and sunny valley, grapes, apricots and grapefruits grow. A counterpart will be found somewhat more to the south in the mountain chain near the Italian border: here the average annual amount of precipitation is about 400 cm (13 ft).

Davos-Platz, June 22, 1997.

Some practical tips concerning the weather: take into account the height of possible residences when choosing your holiday destination. The knowledge that a town or city is situated 'in the valley' is not enough, because the altitude of a valley itself may differ considerably. Whereas the bottom of the valley in the Bernese Oberland usually is situated at a height of 500 to 1,000 m (1,600 to 3,300 ft), in the Oberengadin in Graubünden it may be 1,700 m (5577 ft), which is clearly perceptible in the temperature. The altitude of all resorts described on this website is listed.

While hiking, take weather changes into account. Take notice of the weather if you plan to visit a viewing point. If it is cloudy up there it usually does not make much sense to undertake the (mostly quite expensive) trip to get there, because nothing will be left of the beautiful view. Often monitors are placed at valley stations showing you the weather at the top. Also on TV this kind of information can be watched, especially between 7.00 and 9.00 a.m. Furthermore you can watch life web cam views on the Internet (refer to Links). Thus you are able to judge whether you might be above the clouds at the top and that, certainly, would be worthwhile.

Environmental problems

Unfortunately mankind causes environmental problems which also affect Switzerland. Although the country serves as a rolemodel for its concern for the environment, some worldwide problems became perceptible here too. Especially the green house effect already is of great influence on Swiss nature.

The green house effect basically is a natural phenomenon: green house gases of which carbon dioxide (CO2) and methane (CH4) are the most important cause warmth being kept in the atmosphere. Because of that the average (day and night) global temperature is 15 °C (59 °F). Without the presence of these gases this would be -18 °C (0 °F).

Industrial town Basel.

Picture : PicSwiss.

However, with his industry and transportation mankind brings such an amount of extra green house gases into the atmosphere that temperature has started to rise unnaturally. The exact longer-term consequences are unknown. Even a small rise in temperature can have huge consequences and, for instance, affect the gulf streams. These dynamics are of great influence on local climates. Local temperatures might even drop because of this, though there would be an overall rise. In any case, in Europe a rise in temperature has been measured and consequences are clearly visible. This rise has started in the 19th century and is progressively increasing. Between the years 1950 and 2000 the average temperature has risen by 0.7 °C (1 °F). The 20th century was the warmest one in 1,000 years on the northern hemisphere.

Glaciers are very good measurement points to observe variations in average temperature. A glacier consists of a huge mass of ice just below freezing point. A rise in temperature causes glaciers to shrink rather fast. The volume of ice of all glaciers has been halved between 1950 and 2000. The speed of this process is ever increasing. For instance, this can be observed near the Morteratsch glacier where signs indicate the places where the end of the glacier once used to be. Now this glacier has to give up over 20 m (66 ft) each year. At the Fee-glacier in the valley of Saas (Wallis) a reduction of no less than 111 m (364 ft) in one year has been measured once. Melting glaciers are to be found all over the world. Examples are the Rocky Mountains, Iceland and the Caucasus. Up till now the consequences are most pronounced in intermediate climate zones.

Rising temperature also affects the snow line. An increase by one degree Celsius (1.8 °F) causes the snow line being situated about 150 m (492 ft) higher. So the chances of snow will decrease. In not so highly situated areas this is perceptible already. In the lower parts of Switzerland the annual number of days with complete snow coverage has decreased from 65 to 20 between 1950 and 2000. In higher areas not much has changed yet. Whether this is still going to happen cannot be said for sure. A rising temperature probably involves more precipitation in winter. Because temperatures in higher regions may remain well below freezing point there even might be more snow in winter. Shift of snowline and the amount of snow have different consequences: skiing will not be possible any longer in lower regions; furthermore, the snow deck has a protective function for plants and animals. The decrease of this protection will certainly be noticeable on flora and fauna. Less snow and smaller glaciers also mean that less water is kept in frozen form. And this, in turn, will have consequences, amongst other things, on ground water level and reservoirs.

Another danger of rising temperature is defrosting of until now permanently frozen inner sides of mountaintops. This phenomenon, known as permafrost, can occur at any place where the average ground temperature is below -1 °C (30 °F). In the Alps this is from about 2,500 m (8,200 ft) upwards. If the upper parts of a mountain defrost, stability will decrease strongly. This process too is in full swing already and until 2001 the permafrost border has risen some 200 m (650 ft). If defrosting proceeds, there will be great danger of masses of stone coming loose with disastrous results in the valley. This forms a direct threat to beautiful (winter) resorts such as Pontresina and St.Moritz in Graubünden and the development of the process is constantly monitored. The municipality of Pontresina is even considering to cast up a huge dam to protect the village against this threat.

So, this is a sad look-out, but it does not count for the Alps only. All this concerns a worldwide process of which the consequences are more dramatic than many people realize. The beauty of nature you are enjoying during your holiday can, sadly, no longer be taken for granted. But by acting in a responsible way much can still be saved.

Landscape and nature

There are countries with higher mountains, larger glaciers and more lakes than Switzerland has. Unique for Switzerland, however, is the fact that there is an enormous diversity of landscapes and nature on a relatively small area. If you want to experience this we advise you should make a train journey with the Bernina Express between Chur and Tirano. Within a few hours you will see fresh meadows, bare icy mountain scenery and sunny villages with palm trees and vineyards passing by. That is typically Switzerland: diversity to the highest pitch, in nature, culture and weather.

Simplifying the layout of Switzerland at large, we can say that cities and industrial activities can be found in the relatively flat north and west (excluding the Jura mountains). Particularly the surroundings of big cities such as Basel, Zurich and Geneva are examples. In the southern half of the country the Alps, on which this website concentrates, can be found. Here, nature is most impressive and this is probably the reason why you may consider a trip to Switzerland or you have been there already. Roughly the landscape north of the highest mountain tops of the Alps is fresh and green. From the areas described on this website the Bernese Oberland and the northern half of Graubünden are good examples. Generally speaking the landscape south of these tops of the Alps is somewhat drier and rougher. For instance, this holds for Wallis and the southern half of Graubünden. Both types of landscape have their charm and for your visit to Switzerland we certainly advise a combination. As the distances are short this is certainly possible, even travelling from one holiday resort.

A simplified overview of the Swiss mountainous areas.

An ibex.

Picture : National Park.

Larger wild animals have been almost or completely extincted in Switzerland just as in other parts of Western Europe. However, wildlife organizations managed to re-introduce animals such as the ibex, the fox, the lynx and even some wolfs. By the way, wolfs are not as dangerous as you may think. They avoid human beings and at the most they will protect themselves while being hunted. The brown bear will probably return in the National Park in Graubünden.