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Great alternative. Thanks Slowpoke ! I love the convenience of luggage offices or luggage lockers – especially for travelers like my husband and I who pack pretty light 🙂
And yes, our hotel in Grindelwald is about a 5 min walk from the main station, so it won’t be much of an issue.
Thanks for everyone’s help !
Thank you Mark and Slowpoke, your advice and experience really helps in planning our agenda. I am 74 and my wife is 64 but we will definitely be doing some of the easier hikes you have recommended. Think we will pass on Jungfraujoch.
Hi Toodaliu
the mountain carts are at Schreckfield a mid way station on the gondola to First . The cliff walk at First. However I would not advise using much time on other activities prior to starting your hike. You must complete the hike before the last train leaves SP at about 6:20 I believe ( you should check ).
The hiking time is usually estimated at 6-6.5 hrs but you will want to allow more time for pictures and stops. The climb to Faulhorn is significant and a rest stop at the restaurant there for a break and maybe a beer is nice. Also i would allow extra time for the Panaramaweg part at SP, probably 20-30 minutes. You will not want to be rushed there.
Mark
Hi Skorky
If you are in reasonably good health I think you will be fine.
Mannlichen to KS is mostly flat to slightly downhill and rated as 1.20 hrs walking with several places to sit and rest
First to Bachalpsee and back is mostly flat and rated 1.40hrs walking. First to Grosse Scheidegg is 1:10 hrs walking and flat, return to Grindelwald by bus.
The Schilthorn loop from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg has only a little walking and at Stechelberg you can return to Lauterbrunnen by bus.
Mark
Thanks Mark.
Perhaps we’ll skip mountain carting then. If we can fit in the Cliff Walk at First before we really start on our hike from First to Schynige Platte, that would be ideal.
We’re in our 30’s and quite fit, so I think this is the perfect hike for us.
<<“We’re in our 30’s and quite fit, so I think this is the perfect hike for us. “>>
I wish that I could say the same.
From First at 2184 meters, the climb to Faulhorn ascends 500 meters to 2681 meters. That is 8800 feet. Mt Washington is 6288 feet. 500 meters is not a lot, but you are at fairly high altitude. The trail does not require that you go all the way to the summit.
You may pant a bit, and lose some speed…….unless you also do the Rockies and are accustomed to he lower oxygen levels.
Hope you have good weather!
Slowpoke
Hi, about the replacement bus:
“I’m aware that with the cable car is down between Grindelwald and Mannlichen this summer due to construction”
A replacement bus service commenced operation on 22 June if that’s any help.
Does anyone know if the bus is free for Swiss travel Pass holders?
Well the cable way was 50% discount so I’m guessing the replacement bus would be the same.
That’s correct. The former cable car was discounted by 50% with a Swiss Travel Pass (myswissalps.com/swisst ravelpass/validity), and so is the bus service. It’s confirmed by the price list at the Männlichen website: https://www.maennliche n.ch/en/summer/informa tion/fare-prices-from-grindelwald.html.
Ok, thanks a lot
Hi Toodalieu!
We, too, are from New England (VT, actually), have done lots of hiking (including long-distance stuff) in U.S. and abroad, were in the Jungfrau region last September, are going back this September, and unfortunately are twice your age (darn it; gotta make these feet and legs last!). Some additional thoughts (below) for you, as we hiked pretty extensively in the Jungfrau region, despite some days of very lousy weather (which is one of many reasons we’re going back this year). Have you been before? We don’t mean to sound more knowledgeable than the experts who so wonderfully maintain this terrific site and/or others who’ve returned to the Jungfrau region far more often… but in case it’s helpful at all, here are some ideas for you to consider —
We did the circular Panoramaweg Loop starting from Schynige Platte(and returning there); what Slowpoke has said is right: there are great views in all directions from along the crest of the huge high-mountain bowl you will basically be skirting as you walk on the trail. Cow bells and magnificent, sweeping views are everywhere. What I wrote in my journal: “If our trip consisted of only day in Switzerland, this hike would have been worth the whole trip.” As always, *good weather* is the difference between: (a) seeing nothing — and I do mean nothing — at all, and (b) stunning views that’ll absolutely blow your socks off. We did this hike on our arrival day; it’s not an all-day hike, in and of itself. But it is lovely. The views out the impeccably-clean windows of the steep cog-wheel train on the way up to Schynige Platte will get you plenty psyched for what lies ahead.
From your list, we also did (among many others) Schynige Platte to Faulhorn to First. Unlike some others who’ve posted, we’d suggest doing this hike in *this* direction (starting at Schynige Platte), rather than starting in First. Schynige Platte to Faulhorn is all uphill, sometimes over large smooth rock that can be slick even when dry, and sometimes quite steep… meaning, it could be much harder to go *down* this section than *up* it. From Faulhorn to First is all downhill, but it’s gradual and on a very level, wide, walkable track… so, it’s a much easier gradient to descend. Plus, from Faulhorn to First, you’re going in the right direction for the fabulous views from Lake Bachsee to be in front of you, rather than having them behind you as you walk.
One key tip: As you approach Faulhorn (starting at Schynige Platte), as you get to the foot of the last slog steeply up to the berg-hotel on top of Faulhorn (incredible views, so go up!), there are *two* possible ways up. The first one you come to takes you very steeply up a ton of short switchbacks and you will feel every step of the altitude gain. It is exhausting and steep. But… if, instead, you go around the base of the last steep slog (following the trail that continues on, leading you to the right), you will see that there’s a *much* more enjoyable, wide, flat, mule track that much more gently zig-zags up to the berg-hotel; that’s how all supplies were delivered to Faulhorn in the days before helicopters later took over that role.
I think you originally commented that you thought Switzerland wouldn’t have the ‘steep ascents within short distances’ that you’ve experienced in NH and VT. Having hiked in both areas, we think you may be struck by just how vertical Switzerland can be. Of course, it’ll depend which hikes you choose. But in general, I think you’ll feel that steepness, and with the altitude gain in Switzerland, you may well feel the difference in your stamina, too. I wouldn’t under-estimate any hike that’s rated as moderate, let alone that’s rated as strenuous. We’ve done both in the Jungfrau region, and have been plenty glad for every bit of fitness we had.
A huge difference from hiking in much of New England is that in the Jungfrau area you’re very often above tree-line, and therefore you’re not nearly as often in heavily-forested areas hour after hour. So, given the luxury of good weather, you’ll see tons more than at home, often with every step. Our pace slowed in Switzerland, not only because of the steep terrain and higher altitude, but because we couldn’t stop taking pictures. It is drop-dead gorgeous, over and over and over again. Unlike New England, you won’t be dealing with lots of rubbly rocks, ruts, and tree roots under foot. You may well cross some scree and/or boulder fields; you’ll also encounter lovely, horizontal, grassy, balcony paths with jaw-dropping scenery everywhere you look. So, the steep parts are still plenty steep, but you get to look at incredible surroundings the whole way and whenever you need to catch your breath.
In terms of Schilthorn, only go up if the live-cams indicate clear weather on top. We actually hiked up from Murren(via Spilboden and Rotstockhutte — a strenuous climb, not for the weary). We left in beautiful weather in Murren, but by the time we reached the Schilthorn summit (granted, 5-6 hours later), it was fogged in so thickly we could’ve been anywhere. The 007 stuff is touristy and (in our mind) a bit annoying, and you’ll have plenty of company at the complex at the top… but we hear the views are terrific on a clear day. I believe mornings might be more reliably favorable; in our experience, clouds and storms are not at all uncommon in the afternoon in high alpine areas.
The Lauterbrunnen Valley — from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg — is flat, easy, and lovely. I’d walk it in that direction, to get the best views. It’s a walk, not a hike. We kept being tempted to try the path on the other side of the river (meaning, the left side, as you face the Stechelberg end), but we never got over there. I’m thinking it may have been quite nice, being even closer to the river itself.
The Mannlichen – Kleine Scheidegg walk / area is gorgeous, too. For a place to eat, the train station there has amazingly great food, hard as that may be to believe. Midday, it could be crowded (it’s the junction for people going up Jungfraujoch), but it literally had some of the best food on our trip. Their breakfasts and dinners are really good. In any case, if you want more of a hike that day, continue on down from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen (all downhill, but gently) on a good, wide, level path — you’ll see stunning views and you will parallel sections of the World Cup route. Once in Wengen, there is an iconic, gotta-take-a-picture view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley and surrounding Alps from the benches in front of the white church (the church closest to the train tracks / train station, not the one above town near the bigger hotels). I would *not* walk down from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen, though; it’s a long, steep, zig-zagging path that will test your knees unnecessarily; take the train; you won’t miss anything on that particular stretch, so save your knees for other places that may not have an alternative.
For good ideas of other hikes (and/or before your next trip back to this area), we’d recommend Kev Reynolds’ book, “Walking in the Bernese Oberland” (published by Cicerone). It’s got over 100 walking routes and has grading for the hikes, as well as estimated times. It’s not hugely-detailed, nor does it have useful individual route maps; but Swiss trails are so incredibly well maintained and signed, you don’t need turn-by-turn, detailed notes for most hikes.
There’s lots more to be excited about, as others on this Forum can attest. Much as we love Vermont, we could easily have never come home. I’ve tried to limit these notes to hikes you’ve mentioned you plan to do, but I promise you’ll want to go back to the Bernese Oberland and spend as much more time there as you possibly can. It really doesn’t get much better anywhere. It is just plain gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous countryside… and the Swiss know how to make it all very accessible, impeccably clean, and invariably friendly. It is our hands-down favorite place to be!!
Happy travels!
Caroline
Caroline,
Thank you for your detailed post- especially the comparisons between the terrain in NH and VT vs Switzerland. This will be our first time in Switzerland! As you and many others mentioned in this thread – the elevation is definitely what we’ll likely be struggling with. We are not used to hiking at high elevations so as you mentioned – along with stopping quite often take pictures and really enjoy the views, we’ll likely be stopping to rest due to the altitude gain.
Thank you for passing along such great suggestions (and resources) for hiking. Also great to hear about your experience at Schilthorn. I was going to look at the live cams but I agree that it’s key to take a look before making are way to Schilthorn – otherwise, we won’t be able to see anything !
I hope you have an amazing trip yourself !
Hi Caroline –
<<” For a place to eat, the train station there has amazingly great food, hard as that may be to believe.”>>
Supposed to have the best Röschti in the Jungfra region…. That is very important, 😉
Credit where credit is due-
<<“We did the circular Panoramaweg Loop starting from Schynige Platte (and
returning there); what Slowpoke has said is right: there are great views
in all directions from along the crest of the huge high-mountain bowl
you will basically be skirting as you walk on the trail. Cow bells and
magnificent, sweeping views are everywhere.”>>
Mark probably wrote that. 😉
Of course, I agree wholeheartedly.
<<“We don’t mean to sound more knowledgeable than the experts who so
wonderfully maintain this terrific site and/or others who’ve returned to
the Jungfrau region far more often… but in case it’s helpful at all,
here are some ideas for you to consider —”>>
Your notes capture the essence of the experiences and dwell on the significant points. They are an excellent contribution to this thread. The treeline comment is right on! Don’t belittle yourself.
Hope your trip in September has good weather.
Slowpoke
Hello all
I agree with Caroline on all most all her suggestions and advise. A couple of small points of little significance. If you want to extend your hike from Mannlichen to KS, my preference would be to continue past KS up to Eigergletscher which takes about an hour. It is uphill but has beautiful views on both sides and in front. Then return to KS by train and continue toward Wengen but stop at Wengernalp and catch train back to Wengen. To me this top section has by far the best views of the route from KS to Wengen.
If you have time consider a stop at Oberberghorn along the SP Panaramaweg leg. You will climb some stairs to a very nice elevated lookout.
To me I would not be overly concerned on the direction you hike from First to SP or the reverse. In my opinion you get very nice views of Bachalpsee either way. What may be a bigger concern is logistics. If you are staying in Grindelwald you will start your hike much earlier from First. The train connection from Grindelwald to SP will probably take about 2 hrs or maybe longer. Of course you will have to travel the 2 hrs at the end of the hike but personally I would want to be sure I had plenty of time to enjoy the sights along the hike without rushing. Either way you will need to finish before 6:30 PM.
Mark
Hi Mark –
without disagreeing with you:
<<“Either way you will need to finish before 6:30 PM”>>
I recall that there is some sort of Gasthaus at Schynige Platte.
Is my memory wrong….is it just a restaurant?
If there are beds there, though inconvenient, it at least prevents sleeping on rocks.
Slowpoke
About hike from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen:
“f you want more of a hike that day, continue on down from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen”
How long does that hike take?
Hello Toodaliu, Mark, Slowpoke, and everyone!
Thanks for all of the great additions to my post. Good points, all of them. Toodaliu — (by the way, I love your username) — you mentioned “along with stopping quite often to take pictures and really enjoy the views, we’ll likely be stopping to rest due to the altitude gain.” As I said, you’re half our age, but even some young, buff, twenty-something-year-old Brits who plugged by us at one point on our way climbing up Schilthorn mentioned that they, too, were ‘good and knackered’. The altitude does make a difference. You may find you’re just breathing a lot harder than you normally would while otherwise doing a similar amount of effort back at home. Just pull out your camera and enjoy the built-in excuse for a fabulous photo.
On the First – Faulhorn – Schynige Platte hike, we actually spent the night at Faulhorn. Because of the very heavy weather we unfortunately had nearly all week (in September), we only caught one very brief glimpse of the amazing 180-degree view from our Faulhorn berg-hotel window. That was at 4:30 a.m., when the heavy rain and thick clouds parted for about three minutes and we just happened to be awake. It was nearly pitch-black outdoors, but we had just enough light to appreciate how great the view could be. It is stupendous. So, go up there in daylight if you can. One note of caution to those who do spend an overnight: Whichever direction you choose for the wonderful First – Faulhorn – Schynige Platte hike, be aware that you do gain significant elevation. If you haven’t yet gotten fully acclimated and have not fully gotten over your jet-lag from traveling, if you spend an overnight there, be attentive to possible altitude sickness. It can hit, even if you’re otherwise fit. I don’t suspect it’s an issue for a short visit for lunch and/or the view, so don’t be discouraged about going up; it’s well worth it. But for a longer overnight stay, just be sure to be very, very well hydrated all day and night long no matter whether you’re actually thirsty or not (it’s a good antidote to a high-altitude headache; plus, buying water at Faulhorn is an expensive proposition since it’s all flown in by helicopter.)
Mark, you mentioned you “would not be overly concerned on the direction you hike from First to SP, or the reverse… you get very nice views of Bachalpsee either way. What may be a bigger concern is logistics.” That’s a very good point. We learned to train ourselves to always check when the last transportation was available at the end of each hike. Swiss transportation will leave *exactly* on schedule. We could, and did, set our watches by their arrival and departure times. Yup, they’re that good. As for the views when hiking in either direction, thanks for your perspective on that, too, Mark. You’re absolutely right; I’m quite sure you can’t find a less-than-dramatic angle on just about anything in that beautiful territory. For us, the toll on knees going downhill is something we factor into our thinking (more so on some of the other steeper hikes); remembering to notice elevation gain and loss before setting out can be helpful in that regard. The bigger the differential, the more we find ‘going up’ considerably easier on the body than ‘going down’ . : )
Mark also suggested: “ If you have time, consider a stop at Oberberghorn along the SP Panaramaweg leg. You will climb some stairs to a very nice elevated lookout.” Yes, definitely. That short detour is steep (and a little tight if you need to pass anyone coming in the opposite direction), but it’s worth the good view from the look-out. The wooden stairs are so well-built, they’ll out-live us all.
Referring to the Mannlichen – Kleine Scheidegg area, Mark’s advice was to “continue past KS up to Eigergletscher… it has beautiful views on both sides and in front.” That’s another good thought. That would be very pretty. And I very much agree with the suggestion to “continue toward Wengen but stop at Wengernalp and catch the train back to Wengen. This top section has by far the best views of the route from KS to Wengen.” That’s true. When we continued on past the Wengernalp station, the small building there was closed but, in typical Swiss fashion, the restrooms were open and clean. Spotless, actually. Lower down, we enjoyed seeing the World Cup terrain and we liked approaching Wengen on foot from above, through rolling, grassy, mountain pastures; but we agree that the most dramatic stuff is closer to Kleine Scheidegg and Wengernalp.
Slowpoke mentioned that the Kleine Scheidegg train station restaurant is “supposed to have the best Röschti in the Jungfrau region”. We somehow missed the Roschti; but we did have two dinners and one breakfast there, and all of it was not only very good, but memorably so. (We also stayed overnight upstairs at the station — a much more Spartan offering, to be sure, but clean and serviceable if you want to do various hikes from that location very conveniently.)
So, Toodaliu, can you tell we’re excited for your first trip to this area? You won’t be disappointed. I’ll use my closing as an opportunity to once again sing the praises of this great site as a resource for the rest of us; myswissalps is terrific. My husband and I follow nearly all of the posts whenever we can’t be in Switzerland ourselves, and we have gotten heaps of great advice from people like Mark and Slowpoke and the others who’ve added to this thread and who routinely go out of their way to contribute thoughtful, specific, knowledgeable, ‘insider’ content. Our huge, continued gratitude to you all!
Caroline
Hi Slowpoke
Yes there certainly is a hotel at SP. We did not go inside but from the outside it looked quite nice and provided it had a vacancy one could have a nice place to stay. What I meant to say but didn’t is one must finish the hike before 6:30PM if they wish to leave by train that day. Sorry for the inaccuracy.
Of course one could always hike down from SP but I expect it would make for a VERY long day.
Mark
Hi Mark,
Can I ask: you mentioned in a previous post that there was construction with Eigergletscher Train Station – I haven’t found any notifications on the SBB website – is there active construction going on?
I am still discussing the alternatives for the day (my husband and I have be discussing your suggestion of Schiltorn, Lauterbrunnen and Eiger Trail (starting at Eigergletscher Train Station and downhill to Alpiglen then to Grindelwald). I believe the hike is about 3.5 hours.
If there is some construction that prevent us from going from Lauterbrunnen to Eigergletscher, then that makes the choice a bit easier for us (since we likely won’t be able to do the Eiger trail from the key destinations we’re trying to see.
The construction is in the vicinity of the train station but not affecting the operation of the trains at all. Some hikes need to detour around the construction works but nothing dramatic as far as I know.
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