2 weeks across Switzerland by train in Sept. Pt 7
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Hello Forum folks, here is part 7 of my trip report.
Day 11: Stanserhorn and Pilatus
Once again, it was a long day, putting the STP to work, but very rewarding. The couple I had met the night before at Mr. Pickwicks Pub had convinced me to stay another day/night in Lucerne. So I did. I was flexible. But not before going to Stans for the Stanserhorn and spending a night up on Mt Pilatus, which was not flexible.
So after breakfast and checking out of Barabas, I headed to the train station to put my larger backpack (the same one that contained my ‘go-every-bag’ – smaller backpack) in a locker so I could travel freely throughout the day. So on to Stans I went to see the Stanserhorn. Free of charge with my STP. Last time here, I went up to Stanserhorn my first day here, and the clouds rolled in at the top. I didn’t see much. I tried again at another time, and it was raining. Strike two. This time, finally, it took me five years, but I made it with decent weather. It was a bit hazy, but still very scenic. The ride on the funicular through the pastures up to the Cabrio cable car was nice. The double-decker Cabrio cable car took us the rest of the way to the top. About a twenty minute ride in all. Plenty of trails up top and lots to see. Very scenic, especially on a clear day. A typical cafeteria-style eatery as well as a revolving restaurant are up there. And souvenir shop, the typical Swiss mountain top in that respect. I took lots of photos, including Mt Pilatus, where I was headed next, which was right across from us. After having a soup and a beer, I headed down to Stans and back to Lucerne. I was a bit confused with the new lockers and had to pay some extra. After figuring things out, keeping the big backpack in the locker overnight, I boarded the next train to Alpnachstadt to board the Pilatusbahn. Up I went to my palace in the sky (and into the clouds). Five years ago, this was a clear day, but, unfortunately, not this year. It wasn’t completely engulfed in fog, but the clouds rolled in and out, at times giving glimpses of good views. I didn’t even see the sunrise the next morning, as I did 5 years ago. Unfortunately, we were all fogged in this time around. I was able to get some photos in between clouds rolling in and out, but not clear shots. After a wonderful 4 course dinner, I spent some time in the lounge/bar talking to a couple into the night. I also enjoyed breakfast with them the following morning. While in my room that night/morning, after we called it a night, I realized that somehow I didn’t have a reservation for my last night in Zurich. So, on top of Mt Pilatus, in the wee hours, I was on Booking dot com making a reservation for a room in Zurich. Also, I booked later that night again at Barabas in Lucerne for my flexibly last night there. Originally, I was going to spend two nights in Zurich, but the couple in Mr Pickwicks Pub convincing me to stay another night in Lucerne, my flexibility, and my realization that I had no reservations in Zurich, all worked out just fine.
>>>>Day 12
So I descended Pilatus in the rain, took the train back to Lucerne, grabbed the bigger backpack from the overnight locker, and re-checked it for another 6 hours. Then, I made my to Bern. Finally, after threatening to do this from Zermatt on, I made it once and tor all. All the ugly weather that hung over Mt Pilatus was gone, and this turned out to be a beautiful, crystal clear day. Once in the Bern station (I agree with Traveljet, and others, in that it is not only huge, and yes many levels, but can be very intimidating and confusing, wow!) I found a tourist info office just to get my bearings and found myself walking towards the bear pit, which was my basic destination. I now realize what so many folks have spoken about in reference to this being a good alternative to a rainy-day destination. On both sides of the cobblestone road, there are infinite amounts of stores/shops to choose from. All of which are under cover (again, both sides of the road) under what is basically one extremely long tunnel of intermittent archway openings. Very impressive, very old time European architecture. At the other end of this ‘tunnel’, just before the overpass across the Aare River, I saw a sign that read ‘ccream of broccoli soup’. So I stopped in to rest my feet and had a beer along with the soup. After crossing the Aare was the bear pit. Somewhat newly renovated and/or rebuilt, there was a fairly large complex with a restaurant, a cafe, and the usual souvinir shop. Basically, a tourist area that, in spots, overlooked both the river down below and the bear pit. I strolled around below after riding a short, free of charge, funicular/elevator down, and took some photos. Then I came back up to have a bowl of cream of mushrooms soup with a beer at a table looking back down at the river. The bear pit has been transformed into a larger habitat for them to roam instead of just a “pit.” I only saw three bears the whole time there, so I guess they were enjoying their rebuilt habitat. Then I reversed direction and hopped the next train back to Lucerne for my last night there.
After picking up my big backpack at the station and re-checking into Barabas, I walked around, stopping in the souvenir shop that is on the Kappelbrucke for a couple sweatshirts, some more photos, and then I made my way to the Lion monument and bought some souvenirs at a nice shop adjacent to the Lion. (There are two very nice souvenir shops there right down from the Lion.) Nestled near the shops was/is a very nice (but small inside) cafe called the Alpineum Kaffeehaus Bar. Lots of outdoor seating. They have a small menu consisting of mainly panini type sandwiches and some breakfast items such as pancakes and the like. After a few beers there, I made my way down the block and took some photos of the “Old Swiss House.” Old Swiss House is a beautiful, very typically Swiss type of building. It is now a very expensive, 4-star restaurant (I ate there last time here) that’s associated with the Aunheiser-Busch family of the Budweiser folks back in the U.S. By this time, my ‘everywhere bag’ (small backpack) was getting full, so I headed back to Barabas to drop it off. After a bite to eat, I headed to Mr. Pickwicks Pub to close it down for one more time. While there, they directed me to the Shamrock pub that had a live band (actually solo singer). It was fun, but very loud. And very crowded. And that was how I spent my last night in Lucerne. Until next time…..(I can’t wait to return).>>>>Tip: I used the lockers at the Lucerne train station (and Zurich this year) 5 years ago when going up to Mt Pilatus for the overnight. 5 years ago, they were just a bunch of blue lockers in different sizes. They were located at both ends of the station. At platforms 15 and 2, respectfully. They have updated them since then, and they appeared to me to be smaller and more expensive this year. ( The more expensive, I get) I didn’t spend a lot of time on it, but 5 years ago, I was able to spend, I believe it was CHF 5 for the overnight (24 hours). This year, the lockers were different. It appeared they were only available for 6 hour increments. For each additional 6 hour period, it was an additional CHF 2. Again, as I mentioned, I didn’t pay much mind to it, but if one can find a 24- hour locker, that is great. One may want to inquire further. There may be 24-hour lockers, but I found it confusing. Also, in Zurich train station, there are lockers near the WC on the mid-level not far from the SBB Office, but there didn’t seem to be that many, and I got the last one. I’m not sure if there are other lockers, but it’s a very big station and there may well be. The SBB office folks should have more info on that.
More to come.
Regards,
Danielsan
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