14 days in Switzerland – Zurich, Montreux, Lucerne as base
A couple shared their experience from a 14-day trip to Switzerland in late September and early October, highlighting their efficient use of the Swiss Travel Pass for 30 trains and several other modes of transport. They faced some minor mishaps like lost items but enjoyed exploring Zurich, Rhine Falls, Montreux, and Lucerne, all while savoring local beers and specialties.
- The Swiss Travel Pass makes travel planning easy and allows for last-minute changes without worrying about tickets.
- When visiting Rhine Falls, take the panoramic walk starting from the top and walk down for the best views.
- Always check local shop hours, as many places may close unexpectedly, especially on holidays.
- For a unique experience, consider rural buses to access less touristy areas in Switzerland.
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My wife and I spent 14 days in Switzerland in late September & early October, our 4th trip there. We’ve enjoyed it each & every time, and do our best to take full advantage of the Swiss Travel Pass (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/). It makes travel planning and last minute changes in plan so easy. We used the STP for 30 trains, 4 funiculars (2 discounted), 2 trams, 2 gondolas, 2 cogwheels (discounted), 5 boats, and 2 factory tours.
Day 1 – Arrived in Zurich midmorning after an overnight direct flight from the US. This is the first time we’ve taken a direct flight, which was a result of airline overbooking and rerouting us, so we left 5 hours later than expected and arrived one hour later than originally planned. Can’t say we were disappointed to miss the long layover in Frankfurt. We cleared passport control and had luggage in hand 40 minutes after landing, then onto the train for the quick trip to the Zurich main station.
Walked to the hotel in a steady rain, which did not let up for the rest of the day. That’s OK since we didn’t have anything planned. A quick stop at the COOP on the 2nd level down at the main train station some essentials and then a light dinner and some much needed sleep. Neither of us sleep very well on planes.
Day 2 – Today is the only day we had planned on doing anything while in Zurich, a trip to Rhine Falls (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/rhine-falls/), which my wife has had on our list for a few years. Cloudy weather but at least no rain so we catch a train to Schloss Laufen castle on the south side of the falls. Just before leaving the hotel, my wife can’t find her water bottle although she is sure she put it in her backpack. She concludes she must have taken it out and left it on the Swiss flight coming over (more on that later). Despite the minor setback, it can be considered a shopping opportunity, which she concludes is OK.
We buy tickets for the castle and head down to the water to catch the red boat that take us across to the main boat dock on the other side, where we catch the blue boat for the 15 minute or so round trip to the base of the falls. We got lucky as the clouds & sprinkles stopped and the sun came out just as we approached the falls. Great for pictures. The falls are pretty impressive up close. Once back to the main dock, we do a little shopping and my wife finds a nice new water bottle with Swiss country theme for a reasonable price. Then back to the castle on the red boat, and a walk uphill via each of the viewing platforms. The falls are really impressive when you’re on the bottom platform over the water and can almost touch the falls. By time we get to the top, we are ready for a quick train ride back to Zurich, after a bit more tourist shopping at the castle tourist shop of course. I suggest that those interested in doing the panoramic walk start at the top and walk down.
I check the SBB timetable (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel/public-transport/timetable/) and realize we can catch a train to the airport from the same platform 4 minutes after our train back from Rhine Falls gets in. It seemed like a good idea to just take the train to the airport and check the Lost and Found for the Swiss airline. There was a short, but very, very slow line. When we finally got to the counter they tell us it will cost us 30 Swiss francs (non-refundable) to look for and then collect the bottle – if they have it. Since my wife just spent 30 Swiss francs buying the replacement, we decide to not take advantage of their generous offer. We both considered that a highly unusual, for Switzerland, debacle of customer service.
Day 3 – Time to change locations and head to Montreux (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/montreux/). But not before stopping at the Brasserie Federal in the Zurich Bahnhof, for a genuine Appenzeller Weiss beer. We sit inside at the bar and it is truly an architectural wonder to last century design & decor. Arched windows, high ceilings, big stained glass skylight. And the 2 beers are 2 CHF cheaper than they were at the renovated Octoberfest establishment we went to yesterday afternoon. Much nicer ambiance, better prices, quieter. Our new favorite Bahnhof bar.
After a routine train trip to Montreux, except for an uncommonly late (for the SBB) departure from Zurich and a late arrival in Lausanne by 2 and 4 minutes respectively, we check in to the hotel. Time to retire to the bar and order 2 Erdinger Weiss beers. Big ones. Plus, a Gruyère cheese plate, and then a Gruyère dried sausage plate. Now we have a feast underway because the cheese and sausage plates both come with two mini loaves of bread, accompanied by raw walnuts with the cheese and figs with the sausage. And the usual complimentary bowls of herbed olives and mixed nuts. Plus, small containers of Dijon mustard, butter, and honey (for the cheese according to the bartender). We slowly work out any through this repast, and consider it a full dinner. Once back in the room, we discover two things. One, the TV stations are all dubbed in French. C’est la vis. And two, while investigating why her backpack is so heavy, my wife discovers her missing water bottle, which was somehow buried under a flap in her backpack. I wisely did not comment on this oversight.
Day 4 – The weather is much better today, with mostly blue skies and that beautiful view of snow capped mountains with clouds settled in a ring below them. A nice leisurely hotel breakfast and then back to the room to wait for the 11:50 train to the Gruyère cheese factory (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/la-maison-du-gruyere/).
We arrive after the cheese making is over – they only do that in the morning – and gaining free entry with the STP, skip the tour group and go straight to the store to pick up some souvenir chocolates for friends back home and a hunk of 12-13 month old Gruyère for future picnic use. On to catch our planned connection to Broc Chocolatier (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/maison-cailler/) only to find we missed the bus by 2 minutes. Fortunately, there is a train in a few minutes that will take us to Bulle where we can connect to another train and get there a few minutes after our initial planned arrival time. As we are approaching the stop there is a tow plane with glider going over our heads – no sign of an airport but a fun surprise.
Once there, we again gain free entry via the STP and get added to the line for the next tour. It is an interesting self-guided tour restricted to about 15 people covering the history of chocolate and in particular Cailler and Nestle. And much to my delight, you get to taste about 10-12 different single pieces of their chocolates. The only downside was a line of folks to do the same so we have to do a short marathon of power tasting, about 12 pieces in 4 minutes. All of which were delicious; I highly recommend it if you are in the area and have a sweet tooth.
We head back to the train station for the return trip. Three trains later we are back in Montreux and ready to be done traveling. Also ready for a cold Erdinger Weiss beer on the terrace. The weather is dry, cloudy, and a few degrees cooler than ideal, but the wheat beers are tasty, as are the complimentary olives & mixed nuts. Tonight we limit ourselves to one beer each and no appetizers.
Dinner is take out items from the COOP across the street, which has a better sandwich selection and cheaper coffee prices than the Migrolino in the train station. Something to remember.
Day 5 – After another leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we are off to catch a boat (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/boat-lake-geneva/) going down lake then across to St. Gingolph, a town that straddles the Swiss/French border, which seemed like a good idea, I mean we could go visit France, perhaps pick up a souvenir or two, and maybe enjoy a café without much effort. A fairly short boat ride of about 30 minutes, then time to explore the town. Plenty of time as it turns out. There is no reason to go back. The Swiss side at least has a boat dock and train station, plus a small open sidewalk cafe/bar between the border guard station and the actual border. The cafe was the highlight as we were able to enjoy a cup of coffee and listen to several old timers who no doubt meet there every day near lunch time for wine and gossip.
The French side is essentially dead. All but one of the very few shops are closed, many other former establishments are boarded up, entire blocks are rundown. So we catch the train to St. Maurice, then switch to the fast train back to Montreux. It was a good plan and we did get to France but we’re very disappointed in the visit. And no French souvenir – Mon Dieu!
Once back in Montreux we drop the backpacks at the hotel and take a stroll along the lakefront promenade. Only a few tourists taking pictures at the Freddie Mercury statue which is for once completely free of personal offerings from other tourists. Maybe they clean it off after weekends. We continue on our stroll, checking out various restaurant prices, and decide it is time for a couple large Erdinger Weiss beers on the terrace in the sunshine.
A lovely early evening on the terrace. We get a nice balcony table on the rail facing the lake, and have two beers and two olive and nut bowls as we enjoy the temperate weather. Not outright sunny, but the low clouds don’t completely eliminate the overall brighter skies. We enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of our last terrace night this year. Looking across the lake we see St. Gingolph – one side with lights and one side not so much.
Day 6 – Transit day to Lucerne (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/lucerne/). But not before another leisurely hotel breakfast. No real plans for today, just train rides and check in at the hotel. We stop at the small local COOP for some essential supplies, e.g., coffee pods, cream, lunch meat, cheese, rolls, chips, etc. The heavy rain dictates a night in this evening.
Day 7 – No rain this morning, but not bright and sunny either. Down to the hotel breakfast, and then off to get some exercise by walking to Old Town. First stop is the Fritschi restaurant to make sure we remembered where it was and then a walk up the main drag of the Hertensteinstrasse to the Chas Barmettler cheese shop, which isn’t open. I overheard someone mention it was a Lucerne holiday and the cheese shop and almost every other store is closed.
By now it is warming up and we go down to the riverfront to get a nice wheat beer and people watch. We think about the Rathaus and start to choose the Pfistern but change our mind and end up next door to that at the La Barca Vincafe, where they serve us large Hacker Pshorr Weiss beers. As we relax, we come up with our plan for the afternoon – to get on a boat to Weggis to sit in the little amphitheater and have some bread and cheese for a picnic. A good plan except the local COOP is closed so no bread. Plan B is go anyway and stop at the Weggis bakery and/or Restaurant D’Oliv. Off the boat to find out the bakery is closed today, but the
sun comes out and it’s so pleasant we figure we really do have to get a Weiss beer at D’Oliv… and so we do. A big Schneider Weiss (50 dL), which is not only good but about 1/3 cheaper than anywhere else we’ve had big wheat beers. The beer is finished just about the time the boat arrives to take us back to Lucerne.
Day 8 – Another overcast day, but at least not raining. Down to breakfast, and a quick discussion of today’s adventure options, then off to catch the next train to Bern (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/bern/). Bern has been on my wife’s “must do” list for 6 years. The weather wasn’t going to cooperate for any Lucerne area adventures and it is too late to start for Locarno or Lugano so this was our fall back plan. Armed with an old Rick Steve’s book and his walking tour directions we get off the train in Bern and head out. His route instructions are pretty good, plus there is a map in the book showing the major streets. The weather is chilly and breezy – not very pleasant but we layered up. Almost enough.
First off was the Bagpiper fountain, which was colorful and picture worthy to my wife. She picks a spot with the angle she likes and I have to warn her every minute or so that a tram is coming and she’d better get out of the way.
A bit further down is the Parliament Building, where my wife gets her pics of the Parliament. Walking back across the plaza, just as she joins Jon on the sidewalk, the plaza she just traversed comes alive with multiple water fountains spouting into the air. There are 26 fountains. She just missed being someone else’s photo op. We should have known something was up because the Plaza was wet in one big area. Lucky timing.
Behind the Parliament building is a view of the river, which stays visible as you cross over a bridge to get to the Kornhausplatz. Our timing was perfect – as we entered the street we looked up at the Zytglogge-Turm, a famous clock tower that was part of the original wall marking the first gate to the city, circa 1250. We arrived at four minutes to the hour, which is when the clock comes to life. The happy Jester in the upper right corner comes to life and moves around, Father Time turns his hourglass, the rooster crows (kee-kee-red-kee instead of cock-a-doodle-do), and the golden man in the tower above hammers the bell. And of course there was a decent size crowd of tourists waiting to photograph the magic moment. We just stumbled into it; timing is everything.
Closing in on the end of our walk we go over the Nydegg Bridge, where old original houses still exist, along with one wall of the old, original Lindt chocolate factory that is still standing, showing the faded signage. Last stop from here is the bear pits, where we see three large brown bears (grizzly hump and all). We also see a restaurant above the pit wall and wander in there to warm up and have a bite.
Turns out the Altes Tramdepot is a brewery and also serves original rosti. I order one rosti in the style we have been looking for— potatoes, melted cheese and a fried egg with bacon on it, and my wife goes for bratwurst with sauerkraut. One Weiss beer for me and one Marzen for her. The beers were “ok” and did hit the spot. The rosti was good (it would have been better if the egg had not been completely over cooked) and the bratwurst was also good, (though it had an herb that was a little too much) but the sauerkraut was just right. Pricey though.
Warm and full we walk out of the restaurant and down the ramp to the sidewalk and jump on Tram number 12 to the train station. 30 minutes later we board the nonstop IR15 to Lucerne.
Day 9 – We get up early today so we can have breakfast before catching an early train to Locarno (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/locarno/). We are happy to be leaving overcast & drizzly Lucerne for warmer, dry, and partial sunshine in the Ticino region.
Once in Locarno, we head to the funicular for Madonna del Sasso (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/madonna-del-sasso/), which is our intended tourist target for the day. The STP passes give us a 25% discount, we get our tickets, and then may well have been the last 2 people who jam into the funicular, fortunately at the front right behind the driver.
We elect to get off at the stop for the sanctuary, i.e., the actual church, rather than the observation platform about 100’ or so past it. We are the only ones getting off at the stop, and find our way along well defined grass & cobblestone paths and stairs to the church. Some good vantage points overlooking Locarno and Lake Maggiore outside the church. Then into the church. It isn’t very big, but basically has every square inch of walls, ceilings, and columns filled with paintings, ornate painted architectural reliefs, or various kinds of medallions. Small but impressive nonetheless. We don’t stay all that long, then head back to the funicular stop we used and wait for the next car down, which was a short wait. And far, far less crowded.
Once back in town, we wander over to the lake promenade, then head into the Restaurant Sensi for lunch. We sit inside this time as the weather is a bit too chilly in the breeze and clouds. We figure out what we had last time and order it again— spaghetti carbonara and spaghetti bolognese. Unfortunately the food this time was not as good as it was on our last visit, when it was outstanding.
We get back to Lucerne just in time to head out into a downpour. It’s not just raining, it’s pouring. We walk as quickly as we can and avoid as many puddles as possible but still our feet are wet and we’re chilled when we get inside the hotel. Another night in, after a quick stop at the local COOP for dinner groceries.
Day 10 – We’re down to breakfast fairly early and can barely get off the elevator with all the gigantic suitcases of a tour group that is leaving piled up in the lobby. Each couple has 2 giant suitcases and often one or more smaller cases. Their gigantic suitcases are double the capacity of the suitcases we use for our European trips. Maybe they’re on a longer tour. We feel bad for the poor bus driver who has to lift all of them into the luggage bay.
We head out to the Old Town to walk through the Saturday farmer’s market. Lots of wonderful stuff if you lived here: meats, cheeses, herbs, fresh produce, and a surprising number of flower vendors.
Back to the hotel to drop things off and then back out to go to the Chas Barmettler gourmet cheese store only to find it does not have our favorite cranberry dessert cheese, darn it. The day’s plan evolved to get on a boat and the decision is to get off at Weggis. The sun is shining when we get off the boat and we decide to check and see if the bakery is open. To our delight the bakery is indeed open so we get two pieces of cake and two coffees and sit outside in the sun to enjoy them. After the sugar overload from that purchase, we head down to a bench in front of the water to sit in the sun while we wait for the boat back to Lucerne.
Day 11 – We catch a midmorning local train to Alpnachstadt for a return trip Pilatus (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/pilatus/) adventure. There is an older man standing in front of the cogwheel train boarding area playing an alphorn. When he sees my wife get out her phone, he turns to fully face us for the photo op. By the time we had our tickets he was gone.
Our train is maybe 1/3 full, which is not the norm based on our past experience. Nonetheless an amazing ride, we see 2 deer down low on the way up and further up we see someone starting to climb one of the gray granite walls while two other waited to join him. We also see little “cataracts” of running water, plus fresh snow on the peaks and all around the facilities at the top. There are a notable number of folks hiking the convoluted zig-zag trail towards the top. In fact, we saw several people make it to the top during our time there. Given the 7000’ peak elevation and very steep inclines on the way up, the Swiss are truly hardy hikers
It’s too chilly to really enjoy sitting outside so we head in and are able to snag a table by a big window overlooking the Lucerne side of the peak where the cable cars coming up from Kriens arrive. I get two Erdinger Weiss beers and we relax at the table enjoying the view. Once rehydrated we decide to try the Dragon Walk, along with several other folks. The tunnel paths are damp, mucky, icy, dripping water on your head or all of the above. Each of the open tunnel windows cut into the rock have wind-carved icicles or thin wavy ice sheets which are quite artistic. Unfortunately, the Dragon Walk has a locked gate about 1/2 way, basically where the path opens up again to the outside, so we turn around and slip, slide, and sidestep our way out. Time to get in line for the next cogwheel train down, which again is not at all crowded.
Upon returning to Lucerne, we head off to dinner at one of our favorite Italian restaurants. We order lasagne and spaghetti carbonara plus a nice glass of Primitivo for each of us. Another little bit of a long wait and the food arrives. This carbonara truly puts the Sensi version to shame. Lots of thick and excellent sauce and lots of real, smoky flavored meat. Perfectly cooked too. My lasagne, which is essentially a bolognese sauce with the noodles and cheese is thick and cheesy and flavorful, with lots of sauce for the meat portion. Again, much better than Sensi’s bolognese, which had a good meat flavor but was a little dry. Halfway through we switch plates, and order another glass of wine. Full, but happily so, we head back to the hotel.
Day 12 – Today is a return trip to the Stanserhorn (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/stanserhorn/). No long line or wait for the funicular in Stans. Not too many cow bells heard this morning, but enough to remind us you can enjoy the cow bell symphony in those old open air cars. After transferring to the Cabrio, we stay downstairs by the window facing down. We see three mountain goats on the hillside that a Viking tour guide points out.
At the top the weather is mild and the sun is out. We head up the haystack trail to the top of the observation point and then down the other side. It’s really quite warm. My wife is wearing a short sleeve shirt and I have on a long sleeve light weight shirt and we’re both comfortable. A nice change from general weather patterns over the past 10 days. We stop at several benches for photo ops. A very relaxing leisurely walk around the peak, with a bonus sighting of a mini snowman someone made and tucked into the hillside.
Out onto the plaza, which is not super busy. We have a choice of tables and snag one closest to the rail. More photo ops but our focus now is on getting the Appenzeller Weiss beer on to our table. We both have a bunch of coinage that we want to get rid of so the plan is to buy the beer only using those. We brought the rest of the 12-13 month old Gruyère with us and have a picnic style lunch with that. One beer of course turns into two…. The line(s) for the Cabrio down are the longest we’ve ever seen. It backs up about 2/3 of the way to the entrance to the restaurant. We figure we’re not going anywhere any time soon and the sun is warm, and the walk was so pleasant that we just deserved a third beer. So we got one. This accomplishes a couple things. We get rid of almost all our Swiss coin currency, we have a well deserved extra beer in ideal conditions after playing Whack-a-Mole with the weather since arriving in Switzerland, and it gives the tour groups time to get back down the mountain.
The Cabrio line gets to a normal length, and… we’re out of beer so we join the group and get on the next trip down. We go up top this time since the weather is so mild. Down to the train station and hop on the next train back to Lucerne. Back to the hotel, and settle in for the night.
Day 13 – Weather is back to heavy clouds and threatening rain. Again. Check out and off to the train station. A short wait and we’re on our way to Zurich. Off the train and its sprinkling. Once at the hotel, with some minimal unpacking and relaxing, we decide to go over to the COOP to get chocolate bars for us. In all the goings on of getting chocolates for multiple friends, we forgot about ourselves! Three big COOP chocolate bars in my pocket later we’re back in the hotel. A light dinner at the hotel and an early night since we have an early morning flight.
Dy 14 – We used the “Self Bag Check-In” at the airport, and got through security amazingly fast. After an almost setback due to an unannounced gate change, once we were at the original gate at one end of a terminal only to discover the new gate was at the far end of a different terminal (shame on you Lufthansa), all was well. It never hurts to double check, especially as boarding time approaches. A typical layover in Frankfurt, then onto the flight home. Another great trip.
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