Grindelwald vs Murren vs Wengen for hiking

Short summary – read this first

Thomas is planning a family trip to Europe this summer, flying into Paris for 3 nights before spending 4 nights in Switzerland. He's looking for advice on where to stay among Grindelwald, Mürren, or Wengen, and needs hiking suggestions suitable for his family, including his 10-year-old twin daughters.

Key takeaways:
  • Consider staying in Grindelwald for its variety of fun activities and family-friendly hikes.
  • The Swiss Travel Pass can make traveling between towns easier and more affordable.
  • Make sure to check the train timetable for travel from your chosen town to Zurich Airport to catch your flight on time.
  • Hiking from Grindelwald to Bachalpsee is scenic and suitable for families, with options for varying skill levels.
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  • Anonymous
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    22 February 2019 at 18:16:02 #820055

    I am planning on taking my family to Europe this summer from the United States. I have twin 10 year old daughters. We are flying into Paris for 3 nights and then planning to travel by train to Switzerland for 4 nights and then heading to Split Croatia for a boat trip.

    I have several questions that I am needing some help with…

    1. Should we stay in Grindlewald, Murren, or Wengen?

    2. I am looking at a flight from Zurich to Split that leave Zurich at 3pm. Is it feasible to make it from one of the towns listed above to Zurich in time to make the flight?

    3. We live in Colorado and are big hikers. Any suggestions on must do hikes? Someone recommended Tremmelbach falls. Any thoughts?

    4. Any hotel recommendations in any of the towns listed above?

    thank you in advance on your advice.

    Thomas

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    Reply 1 of 18 • 23 February 2019 at 9:43:55 #904765

    Hi Thomas and welcome to MySwissAlps!

    1. I don’t think you can go wrong with any of them. Wengen is the favourite on this forum, Grindelwald is the biggest town with the most ‘to do’ in town and Mürren is a bit more remote. It really depends on what you are looking for.
    2. Yes. Use the timetable to plan out the trip from any of those towns to Zurich airport: http://www.myswissalps.com/ti metable
    3. Trümmelbach waterfalls is a short walk from Lauterbrunnen – no hiking involved. For our hiking suggestions in the Jungfrau region look here: http://www.myswissalps.com/ju ngfrauregion/activitie s
    4. Yes, each town web page (link on answer #1 has hotel suggestions from us as well (with key descriptions on price, location etc).

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    Reply 2 of 18 • 23 February 2019 at 16:29:11 #904766

    Both Wengen and Muerren are car-free, which I find a blessing. Contrary to many on this board, I prefer Muerren to Wengen, for two reasons, in addition to the former being a bit smaller and more intimate. First, the view of the Eiger/Monch/Jungfrau sequence is most dramatic from that location, and second, there is an array of excellent hikes leaving from the hotel doorstep. I’m guessing that someone from Colorado would enjoy Muerren very much. Try the hike from Muerren up to the top of the Schilthorn.

    NTL

    Mark
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    Reply 3 of 18 • 23 February 2019 at 21:16:24 #904767

    Hi Thomas

    Normally I would recommend Wengen as I believe it’s the most scenic and conveniently situated of the three. However with two 10 year olds, you might consider Grindelwald. Your children might enjoy the trottibikes and mountain carts available at various stations on the cable car from Grindelwald to First. There is a zip line ride as well that is very popular. Additionally there are a number of great hikes close to Grindelwald. First to Bachalpsee to Waldspitz to Bort is especially scenic. Also the other direction from First to Grosse Schiedegg is nice.If your feeling more adventurous you hike from First to Faulhorn and back to First or continue down to Waldspitz. You would also be near the iconic Eiger trail that runs from Alpiglen to Eigergletscher (the reverse direction is downhill and much easier).You should be able to look these hikes up on this website or Google them. As you decide on the hikes you want to do, I would play close attention to the vertical ascent involved. As you probably know that can be as important or more so than just distance between start and finish. I believe the hike from Murren to Schilthorn is a pretty hard climb. A popular alternative is to hike part way and take the cable car to the top then return by cable car to Stechelberg and hike back to Lauterbrunnen (through the very scenic and flat Lauterbrunnen valley). I expect you will enjoy your stay regardless of which options you choose. Mark

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    Reply 4 of 18 • 24 February 2019 at 17:26:41 #904768

    Thomas– One of the great things about this site is that it can provide you with multiple points of view on a place or activity in the Swiss Alps, by people who have been there and done that (and probably gotten the T shirt, as well). Let me elaborate on my Muerren suggestion. It comes down to your (1) conditioning and (2) aesthetics.

    When I hear that someone from Colorado is a “big hiker”, I take it to mean that they are accustomed to hiking up 13- 14000 ft peaks, starting from a base of maybe 9- 10000 feet, with no lift or other mechanical assist. If that describes you, and if you enjoy the aesthetics of heading out the door of your hotel in the village and heading up a mountain trail, I know you’ll appreciate Muerren.

    The Muerren-Schilthorn trail is very doable for folks in good shape (my wife and I did it a couple years ago at age 64), and very enjoyable. You’ll go by a typical Swiss mountain hut (where you might want to stop for a lunch or snack), up a section with some exposure (but having a wire rail), and at the top, you arrive at the James Bond restaurant, with tourists who took the lift from the valley (many of them in full alpine hiking attire for the rigorous trip from the lift station to the restaurant). And then you can take the lift back down, or walk, if you’re really hard core.

    Another good hike from Muerren, and maybe a warmup for the day before Schilthorn, is to the Rotstockhut, which is on the Via Alpina and on the way to the Sefinenfurgge (sp?). Again, a nice place to enjoy a lunch or snack in an authentic Swiss alpine hut environment, amidst stunning views of the Jungfrau, etc. If you have the chops, you can continue farther up the Via Alpina as far as time and legs permit. The return trip, with constant views afforded of the Jungfrau while you descend, is mindbogglingly fine.

    There are also great hikes heading towards the South from Muerren, through Gimmelwald and towards Obersteinberg. You will probably encounter only local Swiss on these trails. Stellar waterfalls and hanging glaciers are to be had.

    The diversions in First/Grindelwald are fun for those who enjoy such things, but you will have lots of company. I personally deplore the Disney-fication of the Alps, with the trottibikes, scooters, land sleds, zip-lines and what-not, but clearly there are many who take a different view of the matter. To my mind, the Alps are among the most glorious natural features on the planet, and one should have to work a bit to fully enjoy them. But, I’m old and crotchety.

    BTW, if you are interested in the Muerren area (and prefer paper maps), I recommend purchasing the Muerren Swiss topo map (#1248), available at http://www.swisstopo.ch, or on Amazon.de.

    Also, I recommend the Hotel Bellevue in Muerren. The owners are avid hikers and happy to help advise on fulfilling hikes in the area.

    NTL

    Mark
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    Reply 5 of 18 • 24 February 2019 at 20:49:20 #904769

    Hi Thomas

    NTL’s point is well taken that the degree of one’s fitness is a relative term. My wife and I live in the Smokey Mountains and are in our mid 60s too. We’re avid day hikers and are comfortable with 12-14 mile hikes and climbs of 2500 feet if need be. The hike from Murren to Schilthorn ascends 4300 feet which may suit you well and possibly your 10 year old daughters as well. We started hiking with our daughters when they were 6 or 7 and by the time they were 10-12 they hiked to Mt LeConte with us (13 miles, 2500 ft.). Usually the first third they were avid, the middle third determined, and the last third ready to be finished.

    As to aesthetics, Ive never done the mountain carts or zip lines nor does it appeal to me but adolescences seem to enjoy them. I have to admit I tried the trottibikes once near Leukenbad and found them quite entertaining (there’re like scooters with big wheels). As to the hikes I mentioned there will be a fair number of people on the short leg between First and Bachalpsee (45 min)but we did not encounter anyone on the leg down to Waldspitz / Bort and you will likely have the trail mostly to yourself if you choose to go up to Faulhorn. When we hiked the Eiger Trail last September we saw 4 other people on the trail. All these trails are well marked and family friendly with no technical skills needed. In my opinion, for what its worth, the views are some of the most spectacular in all of Switzerland which may explain why the area is so popular. Mark

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    Reply 6 of 18 • 26 February 2019 at 1:18:40 #904770

    Hi Thomas-

    Lot’s of good comments so far. You wrote:

    <<“this summer from”>> <<“and then planning to travel by train to Switzerland for 4 nights >>

    When you visit the high alps is critical, as you know from yor experience in Colorado.

    When?

    Slowpoke

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    Reply 7 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 4:29:45 #904771

    Everyone thank you so much for all the info. What are your thoughts on Trummelbach falls? Is it worth taking our kids too? A friend of our is pushing for us to go to Grindlewald because of the activities for our kids as well. I am thinking we probably would have one day of hiking and one full day of doing something fun for the kids. I don’t know if this is the zipline, trotter bikes etc. If the kids would like the trotter bikes and stuff would it be better to stay in Grindlewald and then travel to Trummelbach for the day or would it be better to stay in Wengen and then go to Grindlewald for the day?

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    Reply 8 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 8:41:46 #904772

    Hi Thomas –

    <<“my family to Europe this summer from the United States”>>

    When in Summer? It is probably not critical, but may be useful for our recommendations. And, the forum rules request that you provide that information, mostly to allow us to focus our answers and to help other readers evaluate the information.

    http://www.myswissalps.com/fo rum/rules

    NTL and Mark have given some excellent suggestions, based on what I consider to be excellent perspectives and analysis, and relevant experience. Exactly how relevant they are depends on your degree of fitness, and that of your family.

    I’m a bit uncertain what this means:

    <<“We live in Colorado and are big hikers. “>>

    and, the really thorough and thoughtful information from NTL and Mark could possibly be refined if we know your response to the more rigorous suggestions. It would “calibrate” us, so to speak.

    This really excellent, highly detailed map might help you with your choices. It shows altitudes, and offers many,many overlays, for professional geographers, geologists, historians, as well as hiking trails:

    map.geo.admin.ch/?topic=ech&lang=en&bgLa yer=ch.swisstopo.pixel karte-farbe&layers=ch.bav.ha ltestellen-oev,ch.swisstopo.swiss tlm3d-wanderwege

    Close up:

    map.geo.admin.ch/?topic=ech&lang=en&bgLa yer=ch.swisstopo.pixel karte-farbe&layers=ch.bav.ha ltestellen-oev,ch.swisstopo.swiss tlm3d-wanderwege&E=2637347.5 6&N=1158899.73&zoom=5

    Color codes:

    http://www.alpenwild.com/stat icpage/trail-signs-in-the-swiss-alps/

    Combine it with the timetable link provided by Lucas, and you have excellent tools. The timetable will give you the fastest transfer times, by default.

    This Summer,because of construction on cableways, it is particularly important to use the timetable for your specific dates.

    Grindelwald will be significantly impacted.

    Grindelwald vs. Wengen or Mürren ( or Lauterbrunnen?).

    I’d tend to eliminate Lauterbrunnen because of less high Alpine scenery, but note that it is a relatively convenient base for the “outside world” as well as all of the activities based in Mürren and Wengen.

    I’m in the Wengen camp. Some attachedimages show why. I’m old enough, and have knees that have deteriorated enough to become serious problems for hiking, so the first-hand information from those posters is far better than I can provide. That also means that I could not take advantage of the wide range of hikes described by NTL and Mark, and sadly, even some of the easier ones. So, Mürren would not be -for me – as excellent a hiking base as NTL describes. I could not take advantage of those hikes. Could be just right for you.

    Still, I’ve been to the Jungfrau region many times since the 1980’s, and can contribute some thoughts

    Here is my two cents worth on Grindelwald.

    Grindelwald is substantially larger than the other locations. It does have good views, up to the Jungfrau massif and the Männlichen ridge. It is much more commercial, in actuality and in feeling than the others. As a consequence, it has many more choices of restaurants, hotels, shops, etc.

    However, there are plenty of choices for a 4 night trip in any of the others. You’ll not run out of those options in Wengen or Mürren even for a much longer stay in Summer, as this document attests:

    http://www.myswissalps.com/fo rum/topic/tips-about-wengen-and-the-jungfrau-region-by-kim

    And, of course, easy access to the Firstbahn. I just plain don’t like the ambience in Grindelwald. Last September, I solved that problem by staying at Bort. Not many rooms, stunning views, half way to First , so closer to the stuff in the east end of Grindelwald than is First itself.

    Trummelbach Falls:

    Any recommendation for any specific place or feature can only be from the perspective of the person offering the suggestion. So, when friend pushes me to see a certain place, I look it up , spend a lot of time reading about it, factor in the experience base of the offerer, and then make my choice. And,in that region, it is truly all about choices.

    ( An example of what I mean – many people love the Rhine Falls. I’ve spent time at Niagara, especially the Canadian side, and by contrast, found that Rhine Falls to be unimpressive. Many of the people enthusiastic about the Rhine Falls have never seen Niagara. Powerful, but not very high. I like the high waterfalls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley much more. But, it is all just one man’s opinion. At least,for perspective, I’ve traveled all over Switzerland since 1980, with guidance from local friends).

    http://www.myswitzerland.com/ en-us/truemmelbach-falls-water-in-a-corset-of-stone.html

    http://www.truemmelbachfaelle .ch/e/

    This site gives a broad perspective:

    http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/waterfa lls/europe-trummelbach-falls/

    And

    http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/waterfa lls/europe-staubbach-falls/

    Slowpoke

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    Reply 9 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 18:56:04 #904773

    Man of few words. Been to the Lauterbrunnen Valley 3 times and returning in 45 days so know the area a bit. All are great, but one word. Wengen.

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    Reply 10 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 19:03:37 #904774

    <<“Wengen.”>>

    Join the crowd..on this forum, hopefully not crowds in Wengen. 😉

    Any few well chosen words why?

    Slowpoke

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    Reply 11 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 23:20:57 #904775

    Thank you again for all the comments. Our plan is to travel from Paris to one of the locations in Switzerland on June 25th via train….then depart out of Zurich at 3pm on June 28th. I know it is not enough time in Switzerland but I have not been back there for 20 years and really want to show my wife and kids who have not been there either. So time is very limited… Actually only two full days so hence the reasons for my posts to make sure I get the location right. As for the comments on “big hikers”… I would say that my family enjoys being outside and hiking in the mtns but my girls are only 10 so a big hike to them would be 8-10 miles. We are used to altitude (10,000-13,000ft). That being said I know I need to incorporate some fun activities for my girls other than just hiking. That is why I was thinking of possibly doing Grindlewald but I am now leaning towards Wengen from this thread. Any recommendations on good hotels in Wengen?

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    Reply 12 of 18 • 28 February 2019 at 23:36:56 #904776

    <<“Any recommendations on good hotels in Wengen?”>>

    Funny that you should ask.

    http://www.myswissalps.com/fo rum/topic/tips-about-wengen-and-the-jungfrau-region-by-kim

    In addition to these:

    http://www.myswissalps.com/ju ngfrauregion/hotels

    I’ve stayed at the Schoenegg, the Silberhorn , and the long since converted into apartments Eiger.

    The Silberhorn is really convenient. The Schoenegg is not cheap, but, as noted in the forum, is first rate. Not all of that may be noticed by or appreciated by 10 year olds.

    Although it is bit of a walk from the station, I have settled on the Bellevue as recommended by Kim.

    Very well run, tightly managed, and great views. I enjoy watching this hotel operate…. Totally Swiss, very good value, and a good restaurant.

    Slowpoke

    Mark
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    Reply 13 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:05:14 #904777

    I always stay at the Beausite Park Hotel in Wengen which was rated #1 by Trip Adviser last time I looked. However Slowpoke’s suggestion of staying in Bort is worth considering. Bort would very convenient for the hikes, the girls activities, and only slightly less spectacular scenery than Wengen. Bort is 1 station up the cable car from Grindelwald to First.

    All the hikes I suggested would be suitable in difficulty for your girls bit I would rate them for suitability as #1 First to Bachalpsee to Waldspitz to Bort. See attached photos.

    #2 The downhill route of the Eiger Trail from Eigergletscher to Alpiglen.See attached photos

    #3 for an easy alternative do First to Grosse Scheidegg . See photos.

    I agree totally with Slowpoke, skip the waterfalls. The Alps are the primary attraction. However if your heart is set on seeing a waterfall, hike from Stechelberg to Lauterbrunnen and you will see several along the way.

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    Reply 14 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:05:41 #904778

    I need to try one more time for Muerren, and then I promise I’ll shut up (at least on this thread).

    The Muerren hikes that I outlined are all within the 8- 10 mile envelope, assuming you take the lift back down from the top of Schilthorn.

    The cool thing about Schilthorn is that you get to summit on an actual Swiss mountain (roughly 10,000 feet), on your own power. There aren’t a lot of mountains in Switzerland where you can do that, without technical gear. I’m guessing your kids would get a kick out of that. Also, you can shave off an hour or two (and maybe 1500 feet of vertical) by taking the Almendhubel funicular from Muerren up to the wildflower exhibit (which in itself is pretty interesting), which is on the trail to the top.

    Another thing that may appeal about Muerren– although I haven’t done it, as it was under reconstruction while I was last there– the Muerren-Gimmelwald via ferrata. Does require some equipment, which can be rented locally, and you may want to hire a guide, given the age of your kids. Does require a head for heights, but I suspect you all have this. Pretty spectacular and not something you’ll find at home. Here is a view of the VF: http://www.summitpost.org/mur ren-gimmelwald-via-ferrata/737721

    And finally, when hiking from Muerren, you’ll go by some classic Swiss farms, with the collections of cow bells mounted outside the houses, etc. The village still retains a bit of its bucolic flavor, which for me sets it apart from Grindelwald and Wengen.

    So, as I said, it comes down to conditioning and aesthetics.

    OK. I’m now done.

    NTL

    Mark
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    Reply 15 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:16:34 #904779

    Slowpoke,

    Do you have any photos from your stay in Bort? Probably not as spectacular as Wengen but I bet not too far behind. I would expect good views of Grindelwald valley,Wetterhorn, Scherkhorn,Finsteraahorn, and maybe the Eiger. Mark

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    Reply 16 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:17:00 #904780

    <<“OK. I’m now done.”>>

    You shouldn’t be.

    You now have data about the capabilities of the family, and have used them well.

    Your points are right on.

    Wengen is wimpy. Does not mean that I don’t prefer it.

    Luckily, Mürren is reachable easily from Wengen 🙂

    Slowpoke

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    Reply 17 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:22:46 #904781

    <<“I would expect good views of Grindelwald valley,Wetterhorn, Scherkhorn,Finsteraahorn, and maybe the Eiger. Mark”>

    Do.

    Mostly, of my favorite mountain in incredibly clear weather as the sun set, but some from above First.

    They generally do not meet my standards for composition, but I’ll see what I can post in the next few days.

    Kind of busy here.

    Slowpoke

    Mark
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    Reply 18 of 18 • 1 March 2019 at 1:38:50 #904782

    Hi NTL,

    I looked at the link you gave to Murren Gimmelwald Via Ferrata and the 12 photos on the website. WOW, beautiful, impressive, and STEEP. I’m sure with the proper equipment it’s safe but I think I’d rather poke a finger in my eye than climb up or down those ladders now. Your definitely a better man than me, NTL. Actually its something I would have loved to do 25 years ago. Sad, huh!

    Mark

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