MySwissAlps.com features ads, commercial and non-commercial Christmas markets 2023 – Bern, Montreux, Zurich, St Gallen
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I decided that I had to visit the Christmas Markets (https://www.myswissalps.com/activities/christmas/markets/) which Maggie enjoyed so much and visit some others which she planned but did not get to.
I booked the same apartment as before because it is convenient for the station and trains to Thun and to Bern every 30 minutes. It’s a five minute walk to the station.
I flew out from Birmingham to Zurich on Tuesday (because flights are cheaper than at the weekend). It was a long day; take-off at 9.30 am so check-in 3 hours before that! Leave the house at 5.30 am.
It was a long walk to passport control in Zurich so I missed the planned train and then missed the connection in Bern. By this time I felt like going back home!
When I reached the apartment it was unexpectedly locked. I sent a text message to the owner for the code to the key-safe. She told me to phone her daughter as she was in South Africa.
I woke up late on Wednesday morning and abandoned my plan to go to Basel. I went to the local supermarket for supplies and then for a gentle ride to Interlaken. The bus was only going half way there so I caught the train. I visited Gabriela Schild the wood carver to see if she had anything different.
She said she was booked for a small market on Saturday in Hergiswil near the glass factory. I worked out the journey on the SBB website. (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel/public-transport/timetable/)
On Thursday I woke to snow so decided to go to Bern (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/bern/ ) to the National Bank to exchange my old bank noted for new ones. It would also be a chance to visit Bern’s three Christmas markets. I was disappointed to find that there was only one open.
On Friday – Schneeregen! I went to Trubschachen where we had discovered a pretty little Weihnachtsmarkt with many different stalls. The market is next to the station and the Kambly biscuit factory. Most of the stalls were run by people from the village so the produce and other articles were mostly local – sausage, cheese, honey, ceramics, wood sculptures both small and large; also beer, wine, Gluhwein, coffee. I also visited the factory and bought biscuits for family and friends. This was a favourite of Maggie’s. The journey both ways was very easy and the staff in the factory were friendly and the train staff too -they wanted to know where I came from, why I was visiting Switzerland and whether I was enjoying my stay. It was a lovely, leisurely day out.
On Saturday I got up early ready to go to Hergiswil. I was concerned because the journey from Hergiswil to Interlaken would be difficult because the trains were not running between Lucerne and Interlaken via Brunig. There was heavy snow and when I reached the station I found that all trains on the route from Thun to Bern were cancelled becuse they were worried about the weight of snow causing trees to fall onto the tracks. So – a light lunch in the local cafe and shopping at the supermarket.
On Sunday morning it was cold with snow still lying undisturbed. Trains were running so I set off for Brienz to visit their market. It was quite a long walk from the station for an old man! There were a few stalls along the lake shore and then away from the lake and uphill into the village. The stalls were set up along the narrow cobbled streets. There were many different things for sale. The sunshine over the lake was glorious with views of snow-capped mountains. I bought a large piece of local cheese but lost one of my thermal gloves. Still I really enjoyed Sunday.
I was invited to a concert in the local church in Uetendorf on Sunday evening. It was quite a surprise to see 24 people playing panpipes! The concert was very good with many different styles of music from classical to much more modern including ‘Mistletoe and Wine’, ‘The Sound of Silence’ and ‘Hey Jude’. They took a collection for a charity providing support and education for people who had suffered brain injuries.
On Monday 4th December I went to Montreux (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/montreux/) , another of Maggie’s favourites, for their Marche de Noel. The journey from Thun (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/thun/) was very easy and relaxing. It was a lovely experience at the market which was stretched along the promenade. There was an excellent selection of stalls with lots of different goods often with a more French feel – soaps, candles, leather goods, scarves, hats, knitted goods, scents and perfumes, spices, herbs, wines, beers, different sorts of food (pork, veal, bread, cakes, biscuits, roesti, sausages, cheeses, chocolate and other sweet things. I walked through twice – bought some herbal tea and a wood sculpture of a swallow (apricot wood); this stall was also selling bamboo saxophones and half-size guitars.
On Tuesday I went to Interlaken (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/interlaken/) to buy some new thermal gloves and some sourvenirs from Gabriela and Felix. Then I went to Bern; visited the large market at Waisenhausplatz, which was very similar to other large Christmas markets in Switzerland. After a very enjoyable lunch I went to the market at Munsterplatz which was all artisan products made by local people – soaps, candles, scarves, towels, leather and paper goods. I bought some paper and cards from a lady who makes her own paper at home and prints her own greetings cards using plants and flowers from her garden.
Wednesday I set out for Stein am Rhein for a market which Maggie and I had planned to visit. At Zurich (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/zurich/ ) I discovered that the train to Schaffhausen (operated by DB) had been cancelled. So I explored the market Zurich station which was much the same as in previous years. Then I went for a walk along the river and discovered another market,’Weihnachtsallee’. This was not so busy; it was mainly food and drink but from different countries – Mexico, Spain, Thailand, Japan and others.
On the next day I decided to try for Stein am Rhein by a different route. I caught a train to Frauenfeld. The journey from here was a pleasant change. I enjoyed a ride on a bus through beautiful countryside with snow covered fields. On a bus you can experience views more enjoyably because you travel more slowly! The market did not open until 2 pm but I had fun taking photos of the painted buildings in the market place and was able to enjoy a mug of Gluhwein made from local grapes. The return journey was not running to schedule and I had to make an extra change in Zurich. A very different day.
Saturday to St Gallen. The town was very busy. This market is called Sternenstadt with huge silver stars hung above the streets and lanes of Altstadt. It was small but there was also a Saturday market selling fresh produce, food and drink. A long journey and a long day – tired.
On Sunday I went to Einsiedeln, an easy journey. The market was wide and very long! There were many different stalls and it was crowded with many people enjoying different sorts of food and drink. There was a great variety of products for sale which seemed to be mostly mass produced, not at all like the markets in Trubschachen, and Brienz. But it was a rewarding day.
Monday was a quiet day packing my case for the journey home.
I really missed having my Maggie with me. Sharing things like this, especially with a loved one, is always much so more enjoyable.
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Hi Mike,
I enjoyed reading your report on the Christmas markets.
Although your trip got off to a bit of a rocky start, and the weather threw a spanner into the works on several occasions, I’m glad to see that you had plenty of lovely days and got to see so many different markets.
The Weihnachtsmarkt in Trubschachen was a real find, and your description of the offerings at the Montreux Christmas market is very useful. It’s nice to know about how the focus of the Bern markets varies, and the nature of the Einsiedeln market.
I agree about bus rides! A ride on a bus makes a nice change, much as I love the trains. The buses offer a smooth and comfortable ride, whether that be through gently undulating countryside or up and down narrow winding mountain roads. The skills of those bus drivers on mountain roads are phenomenal!
It’s nice to hear mention of Maggie again. She was such a presence in the forum, and wrote so many great trip reports over the years. It’s lovely to see you carrying on the tradition 🙂
All the best!
Alpenrose
Hi Mike. Great trip report: I really enjoyed it. In a way, it keeps Maggie alive, if you know what I mean. We miss her too. Thank you for this extensive trip report!
Thank you Mike for sharing your trip with us. Lovely to read about how you navigated on your own with Maggie always in your thoughts. Switzerland must hold a special place in your heart because of your times with her in that beautiful land. ❤️Glad you were able to return again and to share with us about your daily activities and thoughts during this trip.
Take care and God bless🌻
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