Stayed in Bernese Oberland before; which area for 2nd trip, May/June?
A traveler shared their recent hiking trip in the Bernese Oberland for a week, and they are now planning a 17-day hiking trip in Switzerland for September 2026. They seek suggestions for hiking locations and transport advice, focusing on staying at smaller towns and hiking rather than sightseeing.
- Consider using a 15-day Swiss Travel Pass for unlimited travel on public transport across Switzerland.
- Zermatt and Lucerne are recommended bases for hiking due to great access to trails and public transport.
- For trips between regions, direct trains from Zurich Airport to Lucerne and connections to Zermatt are excellent options.
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Hi,
This year we spent a week hiking all over the Bernese Oberland region. We hiked everywhere from First to Murren and in between with our base camp in Wengen. We concentrated on hikes that were medium in difficulty.We want to go back in May/June timeframe in 2026 and would appreciate suggestions on another location to visit and hike over 10 days.
Thanks,
-
Hello Sip
What do you mean by ‘in May/June timeframe’? You have to bare in mind that some cable cars/mountain lines do not begin operating until mid-June.
That said, I would suggest that in 2026 you stay in the Lake Lucerne area.
https://www.myswissalps.com/region/lake-lucerne/Lots of beautiful and very varied scenery. Around Lucerne, almost all mountain lines will be open by mid-May. The Lake boats (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/boat-lake-lucerne/) will be operating an almost full summer timetable.
If the weather is poor, the central location of Lucerne city (called Luzern in German) means that it is a wonderful centre for excursions to other historic cities like Bern, Basel or Zurich.
Kind regards
Roger.
Sorry! I had the time frame for our trip mixed up. We are planning on traveling in Switzerland Sept 2-14th. We are also most interested in focusing on hiking vs sight seeing.
Hello Sip
I would still stick by my Lake Lucerne area recommendation. Lots of (very varied) hiking available, all of it easily accessible by superb public transport. Note in particular several mountain lines are accessible by using the lake boats, and those boats run hourly. (Contrast Lakes Thun and Brienz.)
Lots to see and do LOCALLY if the weather is bad. (The VERKEHRSHAUS transport museum is the most popular museum in Switzerland.)
Unlike in the Berner Oberland where you had to choose between the Jungfrau Travel Pass and the Berner Oberland Pass, around Lucerne there is only one regional pass, the Tell Pass (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/tell-pass-winter/).
There are direct trains from Zurich Airport to Lucerne, usually twice an hour and taking about 70-75 minutes.
Kind regards
Roger
Hi Sip,
I agree with Roger’s recommendation. Lucerne is also a good base for day trips to Ticino with regular direct services every hour. Take the train to Locarno and frome here you can explore the Lake Maggiore region and also the Verzasca Valley.
You can start your research on this page: https://www.myswissalps.com/region/ticino/
Regards,
Anna
Roger,
Thanks for the recommendation. I have been doing some reading and it looks like the Valais region has some incredible hikes and scenery We could take a non stop flight from Chicago to Milan and then stay in Zermatt, Brig or Saas Fee? What is your opinion of this?
Hello Sip,
I agree with Roger, but if you don’t mind splitting the trip into 5 nights in Zermatt, and 5 nights in Luzern, that would give you two areas to explore.
Many visitors to Zermatt (https://www.myswissalps.com/tow/zermatt/) only spend a day walking/shopping through town on the busy Bahnhofstrasse, and maybe taking the Gornergrat train up to the fabulous viewing area at Gornergrat Kulm (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/gornergrat/), but there’s much more to explore/discover in the mountains surrounding Zermatt proper. Not to mention the obvious – the majestic Matterhorn at the south end of town. One of my favorite hikes is the Trift hike connecting up/onto the Hohbalmen, which also takes you right to/by Cafe Edelweiss, easily seen on an outcropping above town. I used to stop at Cafe Edelweiss for lunch and split the hike up with an overnight at Hotel du Trift (rustic mountain hotel – no showers, just cold running water and shared bathrooms) as the trek from Hotel du Trift, up onto the Hohbalmen, and back to Zermatt, is a long day. I always stopped in Zmutt for a late lunch on the way back to Zermatt. Another nice hike up through the forest is to the Zum See, for a lovely lunch (or you can take the lift to Furi, and hike down to Zum See).
Saas Fee (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/saas-fee/) is one valley over from Zermatt, and there’s a lot of hiking there as well. If you decide to do both Luzern and Zermatt, a Swiss Travel Pass (or the “Flex” version, for non-consecutive days) might be the way to go. It depends on your specific plans/itinerary. I’d go to Zermatt first, then Luzern, as that will position you closer to the Zurich Airport for your flight home. (I still refer back to my old copy of the Lonely Planet “Walking in Switzerland” guide book for details and new ideas on hikes throughout Switzerland.)
That’s a great idea. Let me look into this option. Thanks!
Hello Sip.
Zermatt and Saas Fee are both beautiful locations for hiking, and I can readily understand Lastlook’s huge enthusiasm for those two villages. For me personally the most beautiful view on the planet is from the ‘Panorama Bridge’ at Saas Fee; and the bridge is only about three hundred metres from the bus station!
Milan is not a Good Airport for Valais resorts.
I strongly suspect that you have looked on a map and. seen that the main Milan airport, Malpensa, is north-west of Milan and ‘in the direction of Switzerland’. And you have thought, ‘Ah, It will be easy to get from Malpensa to Valais canton!’ That is not the case.
The fast train service on the ‘Simplon’ railway line from Milan to Domodossola and Brig is currently quite poor, and that is likely to remain so until 2028. The fast trains do NOT stop at any station close to Malpensa Airport, so you will have to go into Milan and back out again. Heavy engineering work upgrading the Simplon line for larger freight trains also leads to disruptions of the passenger service.
Fly to Zurich (or Geneva) and then take a direct train from Zurich AIRPORT station (or Geneva AIRPORT station) to VISP. From Visp you take the narrow gauge train to Zermatt, or the route 511 bus to Saas Fee.
Swiss Travel Pass
When I visit Switzerland I always invest in a (consecutive days) Swiss Travel Pass. The STP gives unlimited travel on all modes of Swiss public transport except lines which simply ‘go up mountains’. On those lines (and there are a lot around Zermatt and Saas Fee!) you will usually get a 50% discount. (But note that in the Lucerne area the STP does give free travel on mountain lines to Rigi, Stanserhorn and Klewenalp,)
https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/
Beware, however, of the ‘Flex’ version of the STP. which allows you to select ‘non-consecutive days’ for free travel. You can only use the STP to claim a 50% discount on mountain lines if you choose the day you want to go up a mountain as one of your free days!
https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass-flex/
Very best wishes
Roger
If you want to stay in one place for hiking, Lucerne is it. There are so many hiking choices for views and difficulty. I especially recommend the hike above Engleberg. As mentioned you can easily take a day trip on bad weather days. On our first trip to Switzerland we stayed 5 days each in Wengen and Zermatt. Keep in mind that Zermatt is pretty isolated.
We have rescheduled our planned trip. We are now planning on arriving in Zurich on the morning of Sept 3rd and departing Zurich on Sept 19th.
Our sole focus for this trip is day hiking(easy-moderate hikes with elevation changes). We are not really interested in site seeing or visiting large towns. For reference we like the size of towns like Wengen to stay in.
Our preliminary plan is take the train from Zurich to Zermatt. We would appreciate input on how many days would be recommended and the hikes names. From Zermatt we will visit Saas Fee and again we would appreciate input on how many days would be recommended and the hikes.
Next is Oeschinen lake. Same questions as above along with a recommendation on a town to stay in.
Lucerne, how many days should we stay and what hikes should we do? Day trip to Ticino?
Appenzell, how many days should we stay and what hikes should we do?
After Appenzell we would go to the airport to fly home.Thank you all for the help.
Hello again Sip.
I see now that your proposed Swiss trip has grown to seventeen days; you will need sixteen nights accommodation.
You will need transport tickets for seventeen days.
Invest in Swiss Travel Passes (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/) for 15 days, commencing 3rd September.
Your new itinerary within Switzerland involves a lot of travelling around. You now have FOUR resorts not one! The amount of travelling involved is such that I recommend you invest in 15-day Swiss Travel Passes.
Distribution of Nights
Have a map of Switzerland in front of you.
Stay five nights in Zermatt 3rd to 7th
One night 8th in Kandersteg (for Oechinensee)
Seven nights 9th to 15th in or near Lucerne
Three nights 16th to 18th in Appenzell.
Zermatt
On 3rd go from Zurich Airport to Zermatt via Bern and Visp.
Have three days hiking in Zermatt, and use one day for a trip to Saas Fee. To get to Saas Fee you take the train to Stalden-Saas, and then the 511 bus to Saas Fee.
Kandersteg and the Oeschinensee.
On the 8th get the 08 06 train from Zermatt. Changing at Visp and Brig, you get to Kandersteg at 10 13.
Park your luggage either at your hotel or in a locker at the station. You can then devote the rest of your day to the Oeschinensee, which is above the village.
Lucerne
On 9th get the 08 14 train from Kandersteg. Changing at Spiez and Interlaken Ost, you get to to Lucerne at 11 55. The route I am recommending is not the quickest, but it is certainly the most scenic.
Spend five days hiking around Lucerne, keeping in mind the that the Swiss Trave Pass gives you free travel on the various lines up Rigi (a hikers’ paradise); it also gives free travel to Klewenalp, Stoos and Stockhutte, all of them good hiking locations.
Trip to Ticino
For the day trip to Ticino take the 07 18 or 09 18 ‘Treno Gottardo’ and stay on this train all the way to Locarno. The Treno Gottardo takes the highly scenic old Gotthard railway via Gőschenen and Airolo. The journey lasts three hours and nine minutes.
(You can leave Lucerne at 08 18 on the IC21. You change onto a Treno Gottardo at Arth-Goldau, and reach Locarno at 11 27.)
I can strongly recommend the boat trip from Locarno to Brissago.
Appenzell
On 16th catch the 07 39 ‘Voralpen Express’ to Herisau, and change there for Appenzell, arrive 10 30. (This journey could be made leaving at 08 39. Arrive 11 30.)
https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/voralpen-express/
Again, this is not the quickest route, but it is the most scenic.
The 17th will be the last day of validity of your 15-day Swiss Travel Passes
On 18th take the short train ride to Wasseraun, and the cable car up to Ebenalp, where there are a lot of hiking opportunities. You will need ordinary point-to-point tickets.
Going Back Home
On 19th Travel to Zurich Airport, changing trains at Gossau. The journey takes 97 minutes. Trains leave Appenzell for Gossau on the hour and on the half hour!.
The adult full fare Appenzell to Zurich Airport is, I think, 38 CHF. for one person. But if you book in advance, you may well be able to get a ‘Sparbillet’ (Saver ticket) for about 25 CHF per person.
What time is your flight?
Kind regards
Roger
Hi Sip,
Thanks for sharing your updated plans. I think 19 days is great for exploring the various regions you have shortlisted. Here are my personal suggestions:
Zermatt (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/zermatt/)
Suggested overnight stay: 3- 4 nights
Suggested mountain hiking; 5-lake trail, Rotenboden to Riffelalp (https://www.myswissalps.com/blog/hike-rotenboden-riffelalp/). You might also want to explore and hike in the villages of Täsch and Randa below Zermatt.Saas Fee (https://www.myswissalps.com/town/saas-fee/)
Suggested overnight stay: 2 -3 nights
There are various trails to explore on the mountains (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/mittelallalin/)Kandersteg
Suggested overnight stay: 2 – 3 days
Suggested hikes: Panorama trail above Oeschinensee. Mountain trails on Niesen (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/niesen/)Lucerne
Suggested overnight stay: 4–5 nights
Suggested hikes: Stoos Ridge Hike (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/stoos/), Rigi (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/rigi/), Engelberg and the paths around Lake Lucerne
Day trip to Ticino (Valley Verzasca, Lavertezzo, Bellinzona)Appenzell
3-4 nights
Suggested hikes: Ebenalp and Seealpsee, Hohen Kasten, Appenzell villageHope this helps.
Regards,
Anna
Hi Sip,
I concur with Roger’s recommendations – I usually do. I think I’m in the same age bracket and for over 40 years my wife and I have been regular visitors to Switzerland. Anna and others have also made some good suggestions.
I am pleased to see you mention Appenzell, which is in a part of Switzerland that is often by-passed. It’s beautiful and the walking possibilities are seemingly endless. Follow Roger’s advice about the Voralpen Express.
The local pass, the Appenzeller Holiday card, is free if you stay 3 nights or more. The card gives you free 2nd class travel within Switzerland to and from your Appenzeller destination on the days of your of arrival and departure there, free 2nd class travel in 15 zones around Appenzell and lots of other benefits to enhance your stay. As you plan to finish in Appenzell it may also mean you can shorten the length of your Swiss Travel Pass.
See http://www.appenzell.ch/en/accommodation/appenzeller-holiday-card.html
When we have stayed on the area we have avoided the town of Appenzell itself as a base (a bit ‘touristy’ although worth a visit) and stayed 3 kilometres away in Schwende. There are lots of similar places to stay.
Appenzellerland doesn’t have quite the sophistication of the Luzern area but, in a way, that’s the beauty of it and there’s always Säntis, the highest peak in Eastern Switzerland and St Gallen which is a ‘must’ and within easy reach.
Regards,
Andrew
Roger/Anna/Andrew,
Thank you so much for all the recommendations. It is greatly appreciated. You have given us a lot to consider. We will discuss your recommendations and come back to you with our travel plans.
Roger-Our flight departs at 9:50am on the 19th.
Hello Sip
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, we certainly have given you a lot to consider and discuss!Looking at trains on the early morning of Saturday 19th September, there is a 05 00 departure changing at Gossau, arrive Zurich airport 06 37.
Or at 05 12 changing at St Gallen, arriving at 06 47.
The next after that is at 06 00 via Gossau arrive 07 37. That train would be cutting things very fine..Note carefully Andrew’s point that to get free travel to/from the Appenzell region you need to stay at least three nights in the region.
Kind regards
Roger
Hi Roger/Anna/Andrew,
Here is our proposed itinerary so far. I believe we will stay at a hotel in Appenzell to take advantage of the local SBB station for our early departure on the 19th. We prefer to focus on challenging hikes(away from the crowds!).
Sept 3rd-Arrive in Zurich 7:45am. Train from Zurich airport to Zermatt check into hotel Pollux. 3:30mins travel time to Zermatt. Look around town, realx.
Sept 4th-Hike the Hornlihutte trail combined with Matterhorn Glacier trail-5hrs. Cable station on the south end of town up to Trockener Stegg and then take a turn-off to Hörnlihutte.
Sept 5th Trift & Edelweissweg Loop(Zermatt → Trift → Höhbalmen → Edelweiss → Zermatt (loop) Full day.
Sept 6th-Train or Buss to Saas Fee? Should we take the train to Stalden-Saas, and then the 511 bus to Saas Fee. Staying at the LaGorge hotel. Look around town maybe a short hike.
Sept 7th-Hannig to Saas Fee hike in the morning(3-3.5hrs) Gletschergrotte via Saas Fe – Gletschersee Lake hike(2-2.5hrs)
Sept 8th-The Ibex trail(4-4.5 hrs) Saas-Fee – Spielboden – Längfluh hike in the afternoon.
Sept 9th-Depart Saas Fee for Kandersteg. Staying at the hotel Blümlisalp
- Saas Fee → Visp
- Take thePostBus 511 from Saas Fee Busterminal to Visp Bahnhof.
- Duration: about50–60 minutes.
- Visp → Goppenstein
- Take the RegioExpress (RE) or Regional train toward Bern or Kandersteg.
- Duration: about 30 minutes.
- Goppenstein → Kandersteg
- Continue on the same train — the train goes through the Lötschberg Tunnel.
- Duration: about 15 minutes.
Total travel time: ~3 to 3.5 hours
Sept 10th- Kandersteg – Bergstübli – Oberbärgli – Lake Oeschinensee-All day hike.
Sept 11th-Travel from Kandersteg to Brunnen by train 2:41mins. Stay in Brunnen(need to pick out a hotel). Stoos Ridge hike-(3-4hrs)Sept 12th- Schwyz to Mythen hike-5-6hrs.
Sept 13th–Rigi Panorama Trail-2.5hrs &Lucerne-Pilatus Mountain/Pilatus Kulm
Sept-14th-Brunnen to Appenzell-3hrs train. Need to pick out a hotel in Appenzell
Sept 15th-Appenzell- Säntis Trail(5-6hrs).
Sept 16th-Appenzell- Ebenalp, Schäfler, Seealpsee hike(5-6 hrs)
Sept 17th- Lisengratt Ridge hike(3.5hrs
Sept 18th-Appenzell-Hohner Kasten hike(7 hrs).
Sept 19th-Depart for Zurich airport
NOTES:
1.Purchase SBB travel pass, number of days?
2.Purchase the half fare card?
- Appenzell travel pass
Hi Sip,
From Zermatt to Saas Fee, the best option is to take a train to Stalden-Saas, then bus to Saas Fee, Busterminal (from here you can reach the La Gorge Hotel on foot).
From La Gorge Hotel to Kandersteg, the most convenient option is to take the bus to Brig. In Brig, board the BLS Regio train (also know as the Lotschberg mountain railway train: https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/lotschberg-mountain-railway/) and get down in Kandersteg.
Travelling from Kandersteg to Brunnen by train will take at least 4 hours. I would recommend a base near Lucerne instead so you will have easier access to Arth-Goldau (for Rigi) and Schwyz (for the Stoosbahn funicular). From Lucerne you can take the Voralpen Express (https://www.myswissalps.com/activity/voralpen-express/) to Appenzell.
Based on your plans, I would consider getting a 15-day Swiss Travel Pass (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/) combined with the Appenzell Card. You can request for the Appenzell Card (free of charge) from your hotel after you confirm your booking.
Regards,
Anna
Hello again Sip
Thank you for supplying us with this much more detailed itinerary. That itinerary is fundamentally sound. My comments all relate to matters of detail.
Invest in a Swiss Travel Pass, 15 days for the period 3rd to 17th. The amount of travelling you will be doing clearly justifies the investment.
https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/
You will not need a Half Fare Card
For the 18th and 19th use the Appenzell card, as explained by Andrew in his reply 13 and by Anna in her reply 17.
Sept 4th I believe the Hőrnlihutte trail commences from the Schwarzsee cable car station, not from Trockener Steg
Sept 6th There is only one way of getting from Zermatt to Saas Fee. You take the train to Stalden-Saas. Coming out of the exit of Stalden-Saas station you turn left and walk uphill for about 70 metres. You reach a main road and a bus shelter. That is where the 511 to Saas Fee stops.
Sept 9th The simplest and most scenic route is to take the 511 bus all the way to BRIG station. The bus stops in front of the SBB station. Then catch the RE1 train (bound for Bern) and get off at Kandersteg. On the train, sit on the left hand side of the train in the direction of travel. You will get stunning views over the Rhone Valley.
If you left Saas Fee at 0750 you would get to Brig at 09 09. If you then caught the 09 36 RE1 you would get to Kandersteg at 10 13. This pattern repeats itself every hour.
Sept 11th The quickest route from Kandersteg to Brunnen I can find (via Bern and Zurich) takes 3 hours 25 minutes. I would anyway go the scenic route, changing at Spiez, Interlaken Ost and Lucerne.
(Again this pattern of service repeats itself every hour.)
Catch the 08 14 RE1 to Spiez, arrive 08 44. Catch the 09 05 IC61 to Interlaken Ost, arrive 09 28.
Catch the 10 04 Luzern-Interlaken Express arrive Lucerne 11 55. Then catch the 12 06 S3 to Brunnen station, arrive 12 52.
However the harbour at Lucerne is right in front of the train station. If I were travelling I would get the 12 12 boat from Lucerne, arrive Brunnen Harbour at 1411. (The harbour is some distance from the train station, but buses run between the two.)
Sept 14th In this case the quickest and most direct route is also the best scenically. (Again this pattern of service repeats itself every hour.)
Leave Brunnen train station at 07 55 arrive Arth-Goldau at 08 07.
Catch the 08 16 Voralpen Express bound for St Gallen, getting off at Herisau at 09 46. Catch the 09 58 S23 train to Appenzell, arrive 10 30.
Sept 19th Already dealt with in my reply 15.
Best wishes for your detailed planning
Roger
Anna/Roger,
Thank you so much for all the recommendations that you have provided. As opposed to staying in Brunnen what would your opinion be of us staying in Morschach / Stoos Plateau or Weggis?
Once again, I cannot thank you enough!
Best Regards,
Except for Lucerne city itself, Brunnen is BY FAR the best ‘transport hub’ on Lake Lucerne (Please look at the map!). In summer Brunnen has hourly boats on the lake. All the year round it has good bus and train services, and (as I have already indicated) the buses (amongst other things) link the harbour with the train station. The most important bus route is one which runs every 30 minutes Schwyz-Brunnen-Gersau-Vitznau-Weggis-Kussnacht.
Brunnen is actually very close to both Schwyz and the important junction station of Arth-Goldau. The trains which leave Brunnen at 55 minutes past each hour take only TWELVE minutes to get to Arth-Goldau, but they do took 46 minutes to get to Lucerne. That is the only drawback of Brunnen as a base.
Weggis a possible base, largely because it gets hourly boats and the every 30 minute bus service already referred to. But time wise it is still 41 minutes from Lucerne (using the boats).
Morschach and Stoos village are NOT good tranport hubs.
Kind regards
Roger - Saas Fee → Visp
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