[Danielsan]

1 January 2025 at 20:11:58 #2259305

Hello forum folks,

I’m finally getting around to writing a trip report from this past Sept/Oct.

I departed New York’s JFK the evening of 16/Sep, arriving in Zurich the following morning, and returned on 08/Oct. I spent 4n Zermatt, 4n Celerina (one stop shy of St Moritz), 4n Wengen, 2n Lucerne, 2n Stuttgart (for Oktoberfest), 1n Zurich, 3n Lugano, and one last night back in Zurich. Overall, it was another great trip in spite of the weather, much like last year (but even worse), it didn’t cooperate much. There is a lot of overcast and dreary weather. Not a lot of rain, but enough clouds to dampen the scenery. More on that as we go along.

As I did last year, after clearing customs, I went to the SBB office to exchange dollars to CHF, bought a Swiss Travel Pass (15 days) (https://www.myswissalps.com/travel-ticket/swiss-travel-pass/), and sent my suitcase to Zermatt.

Upon boarding the train to Zurich main station, I found out that I had no Internet service on my phone. When I did this last year, I had no problems what so ever and used it the whole time on the trains and outside any wifi area. Not so this year, for whatever reason. So upon arrival in Zurich main station, I inquired at the tourist info office and was directed to a kiosk on the mid-level and purchased 10g of wifi. This was only good in Switzerland (and didn’t help me when I went to Stuttgart). And it only worked for WhatsApp. Sometimes, it worked and sometimes not. It was extremely maddening at times, especially when I lost all contacts. Thank goodness I went back through Zurich 4 days later and got it repaired. If anyone needs any phone kiosk help, it can be found one level down from where the big main schedule board. Take the escalators down, make the right turn, and follow towards the track 31 escalators.

So after this delay, I went down to track 31 and jumped on a train to Zermatt, leaving the overcast and dreary skies of Zurich behind only to emerge out of the tunnel to bright sunny skies. (So far, my day hadn’t been very bright until then.) I arrived about 1700, stopped for a ‘welcoming beer at the Casa Mia, located directly across from the station, to the left of the Gornergrat. Then, I checked into my hotel (Cheminee, which I booked just over a year ago in the wee hours of Christmas morning). Great, spacious room with a balcony and view of the Matterhorn. Also, the Gornergrat tracks were in front of me as well, and every so often, the train went by, which was nice to see. Beautiful, family run hotel. Friendly, and breakfast was included. That’s all I needed. After some pictures from the balcony, I grabbed my go-everywhere “Bag” and headed for the north part of town, and walked/hiked somewhat higher above the village above the village to a viewpoint called Zermatt Matterhorn Aussichtspunkt. I read about it once here on the forum and scoped it out on Google maps and found my there. A lot of uphill to get there, but worth it. I got some very nice pics of the village laid out in front of, and mostly below me. After that, I walked clear across the village to another place I scoped out, which was on the same road as the Glacier Paradise gondola valley station. A little restaurant called Bergstube. About a 6-8 min walk past the gondola up the hill and on the left. I had my first fondue and a couple beers while watching the Matterhorn in front of me, and the sky get darker and darker. At that time, it was becoming a little more chilly, so I put on a sweatshirt and headed back to my hotel to drop off the small nap-sack and head out for the night, but not before I stopped in a nice cozy little Har called Hexen Bar on the way. It’s across the street from Grampis and a couple doors away from the Brown Cow. I spent some time there last year and had fun with Hans, the fantastic, friendly bartender. So after dropping the bag off, I headed almost to the other end to the Hotel Firefly, which houses the very warm and friendly Barr 55. I spent time there last year as well. After that I finished off the night at the Brown Cow before heading back to the hotel.

Day 2) Trip to Saas Fee

After breakfast I grabbed ”Bag”and headed to the station and took the train to one station before Visp, getting off at Stalden-Saas. From there I boarded the 511 bus to SaaS Fee. (It’s the same route that has been suggested many times in recent posts by Roger Sexton.) Upon exiting the train I noticed a beautiful young lady just standing there looking around. I approached her, and she, like myself, was slightly confused about the whereabouts of where to get the bus. It turns out she was also staying in Zermatt and had the same idea to go to Saas Fee. After asking for some help from the folks at the trainside Cafe, we walked up the small hill to the the bus stop. We chit-chatted until the bus arrived, and I had company for the hour long, very scenic ride up to Saas Fee. I had no special plans other than to head up to the top, once in Saas Fee. She was heading to see the animals (I forget what they were, but they were at the top of one of the cable cars). So we palled around, walked through the village to the valley station where she purchased her ticket. I tried to purchase the same ticket, but the machines wouldn’t accept my CHF for whatever reason. I tried about 5 times with the same result each time. She tried, I tried, no luck. So I tried my credit card. No luck there either. After bout 4 or 5 times, I tried a second credit card. About 5 or 6 times. No luck.. I asked about 5 local gals if they knew how to work the machines, maybe I/we was/were doing something wrong? So after close to twenty minutes, maybe more, she decided to go on up. (I certainly couldn’t blame her at this point.) So that’s when we parted ways. So far this day was starting off as bad as yesterday, with the exception of palling around with her for the time I did.

What really irritated me more than anything is that there were no human beings present. Just machines. The girls who tried to help said there was a tourist info office, but it was back at the bus terminal where we started. To this point in my three trips, I don’t believe I’ve seen valley stations with just machines. So I walked away very, very…..unhappy. So I walked/hiked towards the village and drifted left into the village itself where I took in the dreary overcast skies, walking into a few shops, trying to calm my nerves a bit, bought a few things and found a café. Aaah, a beer! Two nice lagers later, I headed back to the bus depot and back to Zermatt. Apparently the same clouds over Saas Fee were the same ones crossing over Zermatt on their way there because it was a bit chilly, cloudy and an occasional sprinkle as I made my way from the train station to spend some time at Hexen Bar. After that, I had a bite to ear at Grizzly’s Bar and Bistro, located on the same street as, and down from the Gornegrat. After spending some time on the hotel balcony I left ‘Bag’ at the hotel and repeated last night’s round of closing pubs.

Day 3) Trip to Bettmeralp

Once again, up early, down to breakfast and then a walk to the train station to retrieve my suitcase from when I sent it down upon arrival in Zurich. Back to the hotel to drop it off and pick up ‘Bag’, head back to station on to Visp, then to Fiesch. The cable car valley station shares a building here with the train station. So up I went. Up in the village of Bettmerhorn it was very confusing for me. I could see a couple chairlifts around but didn’t know how to get to them. One of which I walked down hills only to find out I didn’t know where it went to and had to walk back up the hill. Eventually I kept going up and found the gondola and took it up to the space ship looking restaurant at the top. A short walk later I was finally overlooking the Aletschgletcher from the opposite end of the Jungfrau. Thank goodness the clouds were high enough that I could see the glacier and get some nice photos, in spite of them. After my “summit beer” in the space ship, I went back down and continued my journey back to Zermatt. When back in Zermatt, I spent the rest of the afternoon in relative sunshine until the clouds rolled back in. I strolled by the cemetery along the river. If one is here, be sure to take a look. The little square plots are absolutely beautiful, and I recognized quite a few names that coincided with many of the names on hotels. Very interesting. I also stopped by Harry’s Ski Bar for a beer. Only because it was open. Last two times I was here, it was closed until ski season. So I had a beer and ended up getting stung on my tongue with my last gulp. Ouch!! So I continued walking around, numb tongue and all in search for more beer. I found it again at Hexen Bar and hung out with Hanse for a bit. A little light rain upon leaving Hexen. I stopped for some dinner again at Grizzly’s Bar on my way to the hotel. After some time on my balcony with a cocktail, watching the clouds and rain get darker into night, the rain stopped, and I ventured out once again to close some more pubs. Before turning in for the night.    More to come.

Regards,

Danielsan

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[traveljet]

Reply 1 of 4 • 2 January 2025 at 13:33:58 #2260023

Hi Danielsan,

Good to hear from you again.  Sorry to hear even the trip didn’t start off too well.  These things do happen and I am glad you still had your occasional beers to relax and chill out at Zermatt.

After we returned from Zermatt from our last trip in Dec 2023, we read that there was a terrible flood in the little town mid 2024. Hope they have all managed to get back to normal by now.

Waiting to read the rest of your report.

[User]

Reply 2 of 4 • 3 January 2025 at 8:25:54 #2260058

Hi Danielsan,

Thanks so much for your trip report.

What a bumpy start to your trip.  That must have been quite frustrating with the wifi situation but glad it sorted itself out.

Happy to hear you had a nice trip despite a few mishaps and the not so great weather.

(Great tips for find a beer or two)

Kind regards,

Yolanda

[Danielsan]

Reply 3 of 4 • 4 January 2025 at 11:15:21 #2264043

Hi traveljet,

Thank you. Yes, nice to hear from you as well. Happy New Year to you. I hope all is well in Singapore way.

All the reparations were made between Tasch and Visp by the time I went. I was able to see some of the remnants of where some reparations were made along the way to Zermatt. I had my eye on any progress to the repairs prior to going. If Im not mistaken, it was Roger Sexton who verified that all the rail service was back to normal. (Even if it wasn’t, the bus would have had to be sufficient.)

Yes, some bumps along the way do happen. Thank goodness all worked out in the long run. Stay tuned..lol.

Hi Yolanda,

As you must very well know, there are so many places, be it in major cities, towns, or the smallest of villages, that have a place to get a beer. (Or mountain tops.) Not being a wine person, that’s been working well for me.

Regards,

Danielsan

[Roger Sexton]

Reply 4 of 4 • 6 January 2025 at 12:34:24 #2265696

Hello Danielsan

Thank you for a very interesting report.

Re the bus stop at Stalden, here is a tip.  Go to the Sbb electronic timetable. Click on the journey you are actually making.   On the screen locate the place where you are changing, and click on ‘show map’. Hey presto!  Up comes a map showing the route from where you arrive to where you depart.

Best wishes

Roger