Pt 1: Trip report Zermatt Nov 2023 & Zurich Christmas Market
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TRIP REPORT TUE 14 NOV – WED 6 DEC 2023
PART. 1 ARRIVAL IN ZURICH AIRPORT & TRAIN TO ZERMATT 14 NOV 2023
This report is a little late as we were getting used to our time zone after quite a long trip to Switzerland. I was debating whether to do a very brief report or a longer one with some travel tips that would be of some help to other travellers. Decided to do the latter. So here goes:
We (2 seniors almost 70yo) departed Singapore and landed in Zurich at 07:35am after a smooth 12.5hr flight. Took the sky train to Immigration/Baggage Claim @ 08:15am and was actually surprised to see the fairly long queue at Immigration. In our June trip just 5 months ago, there was hardly a queue and we were 2nd in line but this time it took 45mins to clear as the Q was surprisingly longer than expected for a “low” season.
++TIP: We usually prepare a printed copy of our return flight ticket and hotel stays to make it easier for the immigration officer to see at a glance. The immigration officers have been very pleasant in all of our visits, esp when we have brief conversations with them.
After collecting our luggages (no checks at green lane) we used our Saver Day Pass (bought 2 months before) to take the 09:45am train to Zermatt with a transfer at Visp.
No matter how many times we have visited Switzerland (this being our 5th), lugging suitcases on board trains is the main stress factor as you never know what to expect at times. We wanted to save time at the airport on arrival and did not use the luggage service since it was just one transfer at Visp. The 6min transfer at Visp from Platform 7 to 3 is doable but it was a longer walk at platform 3 to get to the front of the train where the 1st class carriage was located. There were steps that we needed to haul the bags up. Strangely the 2nd class coaches did not have steps but the 1st class at the end did.
The 1st class coach had bigger panoramic windows and though it was almost filled up, we managed to get seats. We realised on our last 2 visits that the 1st class carriages on popular routes tend to be pretty filled up, so do arrive early to ensure you get your luggage space and seats. It depends on the day and time of travel too. I guess more and more tourists are vblogging on Youtube and it’s natural viewers feel Switzerland has to be on their bucket list (rightly so).
We chose this period of travel as we wanted to just relax and not deal with crowds. Since we have been to the Bernese Oberland 3x and sat all the rides during May and Sept, we decided to visit Zermatt this time round as we wanted to see snow on the peaks and just have a relaxing pace.
Frankly, I was not expecting much during Nov – (think bare trees and pretty gloomy skies. To our surprise, the scenery that greeted us near Randa and Tasch on the way to Zermatt was absolutely gorgeous. It was apparently a long autumn and so the golden larch trees and colours were really beautiful. The skies were alittle overcast when we arrived but that added some mist in between the trees higher up, so the lovely views were amazing!! I really hope the pics I attached will appear on this post.
What a blessed unexpected treat because I always wondered what autumn would look like in Zermatt, having read so much about it. Yeah!!!
The train ticket inspector did the necessary checks about 20mins into Zermatt. A very helpful jolly chap. He asked if we wanted to buy the Gornergrat tickets in advance as it would save us having to queue at the ticket counter. The tickets were valid till 31/12/23 and still cost the same (CHF 44pp with the half fare card) – so why not. That was the only time we saw any inspector offering to sell the tickets onboard for the Gornergrat. Such a pleasure meeting him.
After alighting at Zermatt station, we used the free telephone service to call our hotel for our pick up. The phone booth is located before the iTourist Information office (near the luggage trolleys). The screen display shows the free number for you to call the accommodation.
HOTEL STAY at COUER DE ALPES
This hotel was everything we were looking for and hoped for. Exceeded our expectations. Huge Floor to ceiling windows almost throughout the premises with amazing expansive views all round. Great personal service as it’s not a large hotel inspite of the spacious premises. I would say it’s likely the best view compared to many of the hotels we saw along the way. It was such a comfortable incredible stay that we ended up staying there for 18N and cancelling our accomodation at Nyon and Basel!🤣ZERMATT TRIP TO GORNERGRAT:
We had lovely blue skies the day after arrival in Zermatt 15 Nov. So we promptly took the opportunity to go up to the Gornergrat. They have the timings on the boarding screen at the Gornergrat station (just opp the Sbb train station).We managed to get the seats at the front carriage (on the right side going up) with the ability to bring down the windows. Blessed with the wonderful clear weather, the scenery on the way up was spectacular – the autumn coloured trees against the white peaks of the alps with the blue sky, truly perfect picture postcard views. The majestic snow capped peaks together with the Matterhorn and the golden autumn trees were truly a sight to behold. Gorgeous!
Once we got to the top, we had to walk carefully as it was quite icy in some areas. Saw 2 people slipping and falling. We love seeing snow and being on top was a pretty chilling affair so we are glad we had our gloves, a beanie + a thick jacket.
Up there, we took a walk to the little quaint chapel. Saw a nice wooden carving ar the altar. Then we walked to the next building on the left where we watched a short film in the “cinema”, after which we went to the area where we could try the virtual experience through the goggles. It is quite tricky adjusting the goggles to get the “Parachute” or “Action” option as the instructions weren’t very clear. Thankfully I got a chance to try it without having to wait. A long Q started forming after I finished and the staff was getting impatient with those who did not know how to handle the goggles.
We walked out into the open and would have wanted to stay a little longer but decided to take the 2nd last train back to Zermatt, in case the last one was too packed.
++TIP: Remember to keep the ticket as you need to scan it when exiting the gornergrat station when you come back down to Zermatt.
As we approached the entrance to the hotel, we were so mesmerized by the pretty sunset near the bridge – seeing the snow covered Matterhorn bathed in those golden pink and orange hues, what a beautiful sight.☺️ A lovely lovely sunset to end the day’s outing.
TRIP TO MATTERHORN GLACIER PARADISE
THUR 23 Nov was another blue sky sunshine perfect day for a ride up. We could actually view the station from our hotel lobby and see what the crowds were like, before walking there. There was quite a bit of construction going on in some parts of the station.We bought the tickets at the counter and there was no Q when we arrived. We took the large gondola from Zermatt to Furi, transferred to the cable car all the way up to the top. The cable car did make a stop at Trockerner Steg but we chose to go to the top first.
We were blown away by the views during the cable car ride up from Furi to the top. As it was just the two of us inside – we marvelled at the wide expanse of what was before our eyes, all the peaks and ski areas was such a sight to behold especially with all the snow all around on a clear day, which made a huge difference. We can never get enough of the snowy landscape because we have none of that in our country. The Matterhorn would also loom right before our eyes when we turned around during the ride.
I realised that the photos does not do justice to the Matterhorn and the peaks around Zermatt – the entire place has to truly be appreciated with the naked eye. This is different from the pics we took from the Bernese Oberland which captured the alpine scenery quite well. For Zermatt, you need to take the rides to truly appreciate the majesty of the peaks and the Matterhorn.
When we reached the top, we did feel a little of the altitude sickness and had to walk slowly initially till we got used to it. Took the lift up to the viewing gallery – the amount of peaks afar off is amazing as it was such a clear day. The viewing platform is not so wide but it was enough to spend a few mins up there since there wasn’t much of a crowd.
++TIP: The toilet up at the top of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise where the cafe is costs CHF 2 to enter That was a total of CHF 4 for a most expensive pee break🤣. To be fair to the cafe, they do offset your food bill if you dine there but as it was quite crowded so we gave that a miss.
I felt the ice sculptures at the ice palace were nicer than those up at the Jungfrau. Thankfully it was easy to move around as there were no crowds.
We did a stop at Trockener Steg on the ride down way – there was more space to walk around outside with some pretty nice open views AND FREE TOILETS. LOL. Worth spending a bit of time enjoying the open space and outdoor cafe.
Once again, we had to watch the time so as not to miss the last ride down to Furi and Zermatt. We did a change at Furi and were suddenly taken aback by the crowds waiting for the gondola down to Zermatt. Imagine what it’s like in the peak seasons!
Bear it mind that they do sometimes shut down the rides on very windy days even on clear days. Eg. The next day after our ride, it was also a beautiful clear day but because of the strong winds up on the peaks, they shut the rides to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
TIP: It’s always best to check the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise website to see the daily updates for the rides up there..
So the big question: Gornergrat or the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise? Its really a very very tough choice – please do both if you can. That’s my recommendation based on our experience when both places had quite a bit of snow (that’s why we chose this season). We would not enjoy the scenery as much if it was without much snow.
To be contd…
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